Boilerplate

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Crossroads

Swallow the Hollow


29.
+3
3 votes

June Bug 5.11d (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Jeff Neal in 2012
Length: 55ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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For those who thought Crossroads was all slab. Right of Boilerplate is this steep and well featured face. Begin with some big move cruxes down low then continue up through steep jugs to the chains.
Moves: Bouldery
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
steep (1) pockets (1) juggy (1) bouldery (1) pumpy (1) fun (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

3.51 stars (37 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11d (37 votes)

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Submitted by: tyler.yarbrough
Date: Nov 3rd, 2013

Submitted by: tyler.yarbrough
Date: Nov 3rd, 2013

Comments

1
Jeff said on June 5th, 2012
Steep fun, permadraw at #3 for cleaning. Only snake I've ever seen at Crossroads was between the big boulder and the flat boulder right of this route, copperhead. Keep an eye out as the flat boulder is a perfect place to sit down and put your stuff on.
2
Cromper said on June 7th, 2012
Real fun route, should clean up to be excellent. Reminiscent of cannonball, lynx jinx, etc. at the zoo.
3
dustonian said on June 8th, 2012
The iron jugs at the top are phenomenal. Super fun route, thanks Jeff!!
4
Power2U said on June 11th, 2012
Great climb, steep and bouldery! I didn't know what it was graded when I got on it....I gave it 12a, but could see it being a super solid 11d! Either way, fun stuff!
5
pigsteak said on June 25th, 2012
numbnuts neal rides again! good find on this one jeff....
6
One-Fall said on October 11th, 2012
The iron oxide "surf board" features at the top are so cool. The movement is superb.
7
Scaife said on October 22nd, 2012
I broke a hold off after the third bolt, so the big move going to the 4th bolt is even bigger now. We inspected the hold and it was just a matter of time before it came off. The hold above it looks solid. Still felt like a 11d.
8
Bum said on November 18th, 2012
I defiantly think 12a now that the hold has broken. It was a key hold for the crux. Now it makes for a hard 4 foot deadpoint if you head right in the direction of the old hold. (I couldn't reach it and I'm 6') Or about a v3-4ish bouldery move if you go left to a small slot off some weird nubs, heading directly towards the bolt. I wish that hold was still there, it looked like a really cool move off a bomb undercling. Some of the best iron dinner plates holds I've ever climbed.
9
Anonymous said on November 26th, 2012
pretty much a choss pile that will keep you on your toes and rock on your belayers toes, skip it.
10
chriss said on November 26th, 2012
I enjoyed this route - very reminiscent of the zoo. The long move goes smoothly with a righthand side pull / undercling. More 11c than 12a. Nice work on this one! Looks like a couple more routes can go in on this section of wall.
11
crimpandpeel said on November 29th, 2012
not a bad little shorty- looks like some holds have broke but it made it pretty fun with a little bigger move- if you are there, worth roping up- i finally remembered my password, my bad
12
climb2core said on April 15th, 2013
Great line Jeff! Bouldery dynamic intro followed by a steep Jug haul. Well worth a run up it. 11d is spot on.
13
Scorl said on November 3rd, 2013
When I climbed it this weekend I thought Chriss and climb2core have the description of the route right on. The dynamic intro is the hard part, but not 12a by any means. The top is 11c considering the plethora of good and interesting holds including the Iron Surfboard mentioned above. I didn't send but I'm confident that all I need to do is stick the move at the 3rd bolt (permadraw) and the route will go.
14
tyler.yarbrough said on November 3rd, 2013
The 1 hard move on this route felt harder than the boulder problem at the top of scar tissue, or anything on wildfire, for example. IF basing on the hardest move alone, this thing should be 12a.
15
kafish2 said on November 4th, 2013
Tyler, based on the photos above you used bad beta. No need to upgrade. *Beta warning, stop here if you want to onsight* Go left instead of doing the heinous, long deadpoint. There are great holds that are not that chalked and a killer heel hook right on the arete. See, if you climbed with me on weekends I could save you so much heart ache... <3 Kyle
16
Anonymous said on March 9th, 2015
Great route! Super fun! Long moves Forsure but the pump down make this a little to soft for a 12a in the south. If only it were longer! 11d
17
taurusclimber said on September 8th, 2015
Harder than Wild Yet Tasty. 12a.
18
Ti-Bum said on October 9th, 2015
Wild yet tasty is not a good 12a benchmark, try Bare Metal to compare.
19
Anonymous said on October 9th, 2015
Bare metal is not 12a, it's 12b. Thus, not a good benchmark for 12a. Twinkie is a better comparison route.
20
Tjwillis8821 said on May 8th, 2016
Ripped a hold towards the top...it was awesome. Still good
21
monty4355 said on April 9th, 2017
5th bolt on this has hair line cracks all around it and it is in kinda softer rock. Fantastic route!
22
Tunica Intima said on December 4th, 2017
Really good, big moves on big jugs, steep fun! Super cool giant iron oxide rails up top.
23
Tunica Intima said on December 9th, 2017
Left some steel leaver biners on the chains.