Ralph and Bob's

This route is located in the Lower Gorge Region at Long Wall

Long Wall Chimney


4a.
+1
1 votes

Bloodline 5.12a (Trad) ****

First Ascent: Dustin Stephens, Andrew Gearing in 2012
Length: 90ft
Gear: Up to #3 Camalots (report bad anchors)

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The gorgeous red streak just right of Long Wall Chimney. Roof start to hands, fist, and a mercifully brief finger crack crux (small cams). From there, journey up to the distant pine tree via 5.10-5.11 terrain on perfect rock with bomber horizontal pieces just where you need them. One of the best trad routes in the Red.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Rap from tree
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
long (1) fingers (1) classic (1) beautiful (1) technical (1) vertical (1)
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5 stars (8 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (6 votes)

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Comments

1
Willy said on September 25th, 2012
perfect..?
2
dustonian said on September 25th, 2012
"...ass."
3
dustonian said on February 25th, 2013
props to Symon for nailing what is likely the 2nd ascent!
4
symardila said on February 27th, 2013
Excellent route, a must do when at long wall. Thanks Dustin for discovering it
5
Jt300 said on November 17th, 2013
Super awesome line! The start and first 50 ft are incredible! Ripped off a right-hand sidepull flake 8in x 8in x3 in block just above a ledge about 30 ft from the top and took the whip, was wild. Black webbing backed up with cord at the top was good enough, I forgot webbing but probably could be backed up.
6
gpowellhb said on March 21st, 2016
Finally sent this thing. Amazing route! Accidentally fixed a nut below the huck to the right pinky meat slicer on an earlier attempt. Private message me if you want detailed gear and/or climbing beta for this. Added a new quicklink to the anchors, they're looking good.
7
dustonian said on March 21st, 2016
"Finally" he said... in two tries! Nice work ;)
8
gpowellhb said on March 22nd, 2016
whoops, that was supposed to be 6 haha just changed it. 2 TR burns and 3 previous failed lead burns. thanks buddy, awesome route! i love all the things you've put up in the last few years! gonna get my hands on solar flare next and see what kind of nut popping whippers ensue
9
dustonian said on March 22nd, 2016
Spoiler alert: triple up on blue Aliens and ditch the nutz
10
gpowellhb said on March 22nd, 2016
Noted, thanks I'll let you know how it goes!
11
Anonymous said on November 1st, 2017
can you TR this?
12
njclimber said on November 1st, 2017
the anchors are webbing around a pine tree setting about 10 feet below the lip of the cliff. Supposedly you can top out long wall chimney then rap down into bloodline. The crux is low with solid gear but you are definitely making crux moves above your gear. The gear up top is fairly spaced out but basically clean falls the whole way. I'm tempted to say this thing is PG-13 but the falls are clean. I was just out on this yesterday; send a PM if you want anymore detailed info..
13
Willy said on April 22nd, 2019
Save some hand size gear for the horizontals up top. This thing is spicy and the climbing is badass