Crude Awakening

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Gallery

DaVinci's Left Ear


3a.
+0
0 votes

Clair Obscur 5.11b (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Elodie Saracco, Shadow Ayala in 2012
Length: 85ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Walk 50 feet right of Crude Awakening to locate this line which serves up a wide variety of movement up a wide black streak of rock.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.52 stars (31 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11b (21 votes)

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Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Jun 13th, 2012

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Jun 13th, 2012

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Jun 13th, 2012

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Jun 13th, 2012

Comments

1
dustonian said on June 16th, 2012
broke two big holds below the last bolt.... sorry! watch for poison ivy around the base and 1st/2nd bolt.
2
der uber said on June 19th, 2012
This was better than I expected looking up at it from the ground. The little bit of trickiness at the finish is great.
3
pigsteak said on June 19th, 2012
why are people voting this thing so low if it is an instant classic...honest question....instant classic should be 5 stars up and down anyone's ticklist imo....
4
pigsteak said on June 19th, 2012
never mind...only three votes...
5
dustonian said on June 19th, 2012
trying to un-stir the pot, Monsieur Pig?
6
pigsteak said on June 19th, 2012
naw, trying to unstir that mixed drink while I was typing....
7
taurusclimber said on June 24th, 2012
I thought that the bolt after the crux reachy move should have been lower. I had to pull up and lock off to reach the hanger from the resting hold, and I'm about 5'9.
8
Spikeddem said on October 22nd, 2012
How about now, Mr. Pig?
9
Spikeddem said on October 24th, 2012
Couldn't agree more with taurusclimber. Hanging that draw and clipping felt like the hardest bit of the route.
10
Willy said on December 3rd, 2012
Top stays wet for a while after rain
11
nik said on May 31st, 2013
really good! loved the deceptive face-climbing down low and the varied overhang up top. needs a lot of traffic. get on it!
12
climb2core said on July 6th, 2014
Nice climb with hard to read sequences due to the lack of chalk and hidden nature of the holds on the lichen face. Spent a while looking up on this one.
13
caribe said on October 2nd, 2017
Clair Obscur Is fantástico, Thanks Shadow!
14
shadow.ayala said on October 4th, 2017
It has been a long time but I think I was going to move the last bolt to the right after the jug broke. I never did. Any comment on how it climbs lately? I would be happy to move the last bolt if needed when I return.
15
AdamDugan said on October 4th, 2017
In its current state, the last bolt did seem a little out of place. You end up traversing left to clip it just to traverse back right to finish up the flake. Not a huge deal, but it did make it seem like the flake was intended to be "off".
16
shadow.ayala said on October 4th, 2017
There was nothing intended. There was a jug that broke off there and I meant to move the bolt to the right so you could finish up the flake. If no one addresses it, I will fix it when we get back.
17
airplaneface said on October 18th, 2019
The last bolt is still out of the way, not to bad if you can get someone to hang an extended draw for you. As well, some of the bolts on this thing look pretty rusted .