Keepin' it Real

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory

Peaches and Cream


55.
+1
1 votes

Squirrelworker 5.11a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Dustin Stephens, Scott Curran in 2012
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

Click for more images
This and the following three routes are around the corner to the right of the previous slab lines. If you followed the main trail up to the cliff instead of taking the left branch up to Cat's Demise then continue straight past the obvious trail on the left near the top of the trail to the next trail on the left which leads directly up to these routes. Take the next trail on the left which leads straight up to a vertical wall containing several bolted lines. This is the leftmost line and begins with some bulge wrestling to reach the less demanding face above.
Moves: Slight overhang and vertical fac
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Private
Steepness:

Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus
 

3.26 stars (27 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11a (21 votes)

You must login to save your input!
stars
grade
attempts
+
-
spray
+ add
project
+ add

Charts

Photos

Sorry, no pictures to be had. {want to add a photo?}

Comments

1
dustonian said on July 7th, 2012
Fun route with a well-defined crux. Do not lower through glue-in bolts... leave a biner or quicklink if you have to bail!
2
Jeff said on August 26th, 2012
Very good line. Real good movement, especially after the crux to the chains. Glad I was up second on it. Nice job Dustin!
3
dustonian said on August 28th, 2012
glad you liked it, I did too!
4
heavyc said on October 30th, 2012
once it gets some traffic and cleans up a bit I think it will be a great line, thanks for putting it up
5
Sarnoth said on November 12th, 2012
Really fun. The first half reminded me of girls gone wild and the second half made me pay attention.
6
dustonian said on May 20th, 2013
Cheers to whoever pulled the fixed rope off this route. Get in touch if you still have the biners etc. from up top, thanks.
7
EricDorsey said on October 21st, 2013
I liked it, the flake section down low was super good and pulling the bulge was a little tricky and fun. The end was a little weird though, I followed what I thought was the obvious climbing right and ended up to far right to clip the chains.
8
climb2core said on May 17th, 2014
Nice line, no hands right before the crux takes some of the bite out of it. Top gets wet in the rain, as I found out while climbing it.
9
michaelarmand said on November 6th, 2016
Really good route. I agree the anchor placement is quite a bit left of the line. Not sure why, perhaps to keep things interesting at the end.....
10
Anonymous said on November 6th, 2016
would be nice to move the anchors to the right a bit to follow the natural line of climbing. Quite contrived how it is.
11
Cocoapuffs1000 said on July 30th, 2018
I counted 3 wasp nests in well chalked pockets on the top half of this route