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Violet Beauregarde

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory

 Willy Wonka

60.
+0
0 votes

Easy Pickins 5.8 (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Dustin Stephens, Scott Curran, Daniel Hermanns in 2012
Length: 65ft
Gear: 1" to 6", several #4 camalots, #5 helpful. (report bad anchors)

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Take on the corner right of Violet Beauregarde which begins with some chimney shuffling to reach worthy rock and big holds. Named after the ripe blackberries just outside of the chimney during the summer.
Moves: Chimney and lieback
Descent: 2-bolt rap anchor
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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3.67 stars (3 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8 (4 votes)

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Submitted by: Lil Josh
Date: Aug 14th, 2013

Submitted by: DWH
Date: Jun 30th, 2012

Comments

5 comments {add your own comments}
1
dustonian said on June 22nd, 2012
Definitely worth bringing the big cams out to the crag for this route and Strongyloides, if you're into that sort of thing
2
dustonian said on July 3rd, 2012
This thing is not as bushy as it looks in the photo... there is one blackberry bush on the outside of the crack, but you climb inside the chimney at that point, well clear of it. This is a great route for beginning climbers with easy toprope setup. I did see a copperhead near the base of Violet Beauregarde once, so watch for that. Cool and shady in the afternoon... get on this thing while the berries are still ripe!
3
dustonian said on July 3rd, 2012
Should clarify that by "easy TR setup", I meant once someone leads it.
4
dustonian said on July 30th, 2012
You can reach the first "worthy" hold before doing any real chimney shuffling. Pretty light and pleasant in the grade really.
5
Kyle Hartung said on July 14th, 2014
Pretty fun route. I'd say I broke three holds down low in/near the chimney. Nice hand crack up high. I think this is rarely climbed.