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Chocolate Myotis

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory

Crimp My Ride

0 votes

Babinski Sign 5.10d (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Dustin Stephens, Jeremy Kiner in 2012
Length: 90ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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A few minutes right of Enkidu is this tall vertical face with a bolted line left of an arete and a large tree. Begin left of the arete then switch to the right side after the hueco for sidepulls and high-steps to the chains.
Moves: Vertical face
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Private

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Quality Consensus

4.07 stars (59 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10d (46 votes)

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Submitted by: Rooky
Date: Jun 10th, 2013

Submitted by: DrRockso
Date: Feb 17th, 2013

Submitted by: ray
Date: Jul 14th, 2012


dustonian said on June 22nd, 2012
Currently only one bolt at anchor currently, back up to trees above. Please leave the 2 carabiners on the chain and rope until I get back out there to add the 2nd glue-in and chain at anchor. Still some lichen on this one, but will be a really good long route after some more scrubbin and traffic.
dustonian said on July 2nd, 2012
Anchor good to go... enjoy this one, it's a nice ride!
Jeff said on August 26th, 2012
What a fun and interesting puzzle to unlock. Killer movement all the way. Back cleaned 1 and 2 on lead to belay from right side of tree. Would give 5 stars if the start and belay area were built up and flat. Going to be a popular route and rightfully so! Might be difficult on a humid day.
pumpout2004 said on August 27th, 2012
stayed left through the entire upper section felt 12a-ish. Don't be stupid like me, climb the jugs to the right of the bold line...
dustonian said on August 28th, 2012
Agreed, Jeff... a base area would be great. Any tips, o construction-oriented one? Seems like a rebar and treated lumber job to me.
Jeff said on August 28th, 2012
Treated 2x10 or 2x12 w/4ft rebar would work, but if that tree just happened to fall over, I'd chainsaw that thing up and use it. That tree is probably doing a good job of holding that hill though and it looks cool...
Andrew said on November 12th, 2012
So good it made my toes move
der uber said on November 12th, 2012
Wow, the bottom is nothing special but the upper half is really fun.
pigsteak said on November 23rd, 2012
loved the slopey holds on second half.....thx dustin.
krampus said on November 26th, 2012
Definitely an unexpected gem once you round the corner
Chiyram said on February 11th, 2013
This was really frustrating until the end and then I realized how amazing it was. Really technical and a super fun puzzle. I have to go back and send, but definitely a 4 to 5 star climb.
dustonian said on August 9th, 2013
flattened out the belay area and through in treated lumber ground support, so go ahead and bump up your quality rating, Mr. Neal ;)
Jeff said on August 9th, 2013
That's great Dustin, good work! I can't change my vote but rest assured, I know think of that route as a 4.786 instead of a 4 star route :)
caribe said on April 27th, 2015
A 5 * route
coolbreeze said on March 22nd, 2016
12d if you don't use the tree to avoid the crux. 5 stars either way!!
climb2core said on April 12th, 2016
Great route. This one keeps your attention.
Anonymous said on April 13th, 2016
ian speak, for "got shut down on my proj"
lena_chita said on March 27th, 2017
climbing the jugs on the right in the upper section sounds like a GREAT idea... unless you can't reach the bolts from those jugs on the right.