Hood Luck

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Crossroads

October Sky


13.
+0
0 votes

Fairweather Friend 5.10d (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Jeff Neal in 2012
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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15 feet left of October Sky (Hood Luck is 25ft left), is this long and varied climb. Pull the buldge, walk the ramp, and enjoy some good movement on solid stone to the top. Like the other routes on this section of wall, the sun can be brutal in summer until 2:00 or so.
Moves: Pockets
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.96 stars (57 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10d (58 votes)

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Submitted by: Jeff
Date: Sep 17th, 2012

Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Aug 14th, 2012

Comments

1
Jeff said on June 28th, 2012
If you want, you can bump the grade by going out right around 5 to 6.
2
Cromper said on June 28th, 2012
Dustin and myself were eyeing this one up. Looks like a stellar line!
3
dustonian said on June 28th, 2012
way SIKED to climb it... top reminds me of Super Dario. Thanks Jeff!
4
Jeff said on June 28th, 2012
Cromper, that's why I finally got around to bolting it ;-)
5
dustonian said on June 28th, 2012
3 stellar lines now on this puppy... "Jeff's Wall"! Can't wait to give Hood Luck a run...
6
dustonian said on June 28th, 2012
never mind... make that 5 lines of great face climbing.
7
climb2core said on June 28th, 2012
Who is the FWF?
8
One-Fall said on June 29th, 2012
I bet I fit the bill. Jeff is one of my good friends, and I only climb when the weather is prime.
9
dustonian said on June 29th, 2012
aha!!!
10
Jeff said on June 29th, 2012
Lee, you are one of a handful my friend! :-) When I rode motorcycles, a certain friend called me "fairweather".
11
pigsteak said on June 30th, 2012
So one fall, that means you only get to climb 5-6 days a year round here? Oh yeah, FWF is quite the fun line. Thx numbnuts
12
dustonian said on July 11th, 2012
super fun route, thank Jeff!! Top is amazing.
13
ray said on August 12th, 2012
Freaking awesome man. Like the 5.10 version of Swahili Slang. One of the best 5.10 lines in the Red.
14
Jeff said on September 5th, 2012
Can see this as 10c, gave it 10d due to a few moves coming off slab section where a fall might have you landing on your feet. Not a good reason to give a higher grade I guess. The moves are 10c moves (IMO), just be aware of the potential if at your limit.
15
One-Fall said on October 11th, 2012
Too much goodness. I don't even know where to start.
16
Anonymous said on November 26th, 2012
Nice line on excellent rock, the bolting not so much. Ground fall potential very high at the bottom, unecessary run outs at the top. Super warm up but I would guess most 10 leaders will not get on this route. For a privately owned area like this that is trying to create the most open climbing for the most people, this type of bolting mentality should be ridiculed.
17
EricDorsey said on November 26th, 2012
Great route! One of my favorite 10d's I have done at the red. I am not sure what the previous poster is talking about though, I thought the bolting was fine. There was one tricky move at about the 3rd or 4th bolt but you are coming off a no hands rest and the clipping hold is huge. And where are the "unnecessary run outs at the top"? The upper section is huge jugs and super well bolted.... Sure you were on the right route?
18
dustonian said on November 26th, 2012
Agreed, super fun route and nothing about it is particularly runout or dangerous... the anonymous slander on this website has gotten out of control.
19
Jeff said on November 26th, 2012
Lol, new term Dustin: "Hate Bait". It's all-right, I'm not biting.
20
Anonymous said on December 3rd, 2012
At least 1 or more of the glue-ins looked questionable. The glue was not flush with the rock maybe an inch back from the hole entrance. If the rods are a foot long it's probably not a concern I guess, but I'm assuming w/o having the glue flush to the rock, the rods will be able to bend and will likely start grinding away at the outermost glue and work its way in.
21
Cromper said on December 3rd, 2012
Jesus... Go rock climb. Gaurantee the glue-ins are fine.
22
climb2core said on April 15th, 2013
It was fun to do, felt like I did two climbs due to the length and change in character. The top 1/2 makes it all worth it.
23
Brentucky said on April 1st, 2014
Excellent climb. Thanks Jeff!
24
J-Ru said on April 1st, 2014
I whipped from the anchors and hit nothing but air. With a good belay, the bolting at the top is fine. I do not remember any ground fall concerns at the bottom. Great route!