Star-bellied Sneeches

This route is located in the Lower Gorge Region at Dip Wall

Cat in the Hat


18a.
+0
0 votes

Snitches 5.11b (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Dustin Stephens, Siamak Pazirandeh in 2012
Length: 100ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Extension to Star-Bellied Sneeches. Continue up through the roof to a great hand crack, offwidth, then thin crack to slab crux. Rappel from the Lorax Tree with a 60m rope. Gear to 3".
? Chad Maurer, Seth Kovatch 2008, FA Siamak Pazirandeh 2010, FFA Dustin Stephens & Daniel Hermanns 2012
Moves: unknown
Descent: Rap from tree
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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4.5 stars (2 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11b (1 votes)

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Submitted by: dustonian
Date: Jul 8th, 2012

Comments

1
dustonian said on July 9th, 2012
Great climbing on this one with a sequential crux. Topout can be interesting when it's wet... move right
2
dustonian said on July 9th, 2012
a 60m rope JUST makes it, so tie knots in your tails!!
3
xrtrady1 said on September 2nd, 2012
Did this route in 2008 with Sean Kovatch. I thought it was around 10+ and dubbed it Snitches. Chad.
4
dustonian said on September 2nd, 2012
Nice! What's your last name? I assume that you mean you led it. I thought the upper slab bit where the crack stops was pretty hard, though a lot of that was because of all the lichen on the holds. Great route!
5
caribe said on April 2nd, 2013
"Did this route in 2008 with Sean Kovatch. I thought it was around 10+ and dubbed it Snitches. Chad." From where did you rap? How far above your last piece were you when you did rap?
6
Steve_BSU said on October 31st, 2014
How do you do the move after you have clipped the piton? that was the one move I could not figure out how to do:/ def a great route wish it would be a bit cleaner
7
caribe said on October 31st, 2014
Move hard to the right
8
Anonymous said on November 1st, 2014
There are small edges there, very balancey but it's all there. Take a brush and clean it up, it wouldn't take much and it would definitely make the crux less insecure.