Scalawagarus

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Bright Side

One-zero-six


3.
+1
1 votes

Tongue-punch 5.11d (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Andrew Wheatley in 2012
Length: 55ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Just left of Scalawagarus is another mank-start route which promises to make it up to you if you just stick with it for 25 feet. Boulder up the shallow groove on small crimps and big moves.
Moves: Bouldery
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light Rain
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
bouldery (1) crimpy (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

3 stars (9 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11d (7 votes)

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Comments

1
Andrew said on July 17th, 2012
The bottom is a little dirty but will clean up with traffic or a brush, avoid the wet rock with an easy mantel, but don't accidentally tongue punch the wet spot. Enjoy quality climbing and rock for the last 2/3's. I hope the grade is accurate. felt harder than Crown and One-Zero-Six, but not 12a hard.
2
dustonian said on July 17th, 2012
Sounds about right since Crown is 11c... just calling it 11d to be nice
3
Cromper said on July 27th, 2012
Great route guys! If only it weren't for the smarmy shit above the big ledge down low this route would be 5*. Excellent movement and rock up top!
4
AlexAndEr said on July 30th, 2012
Who else would name a route tongue-punch?
5
pumpout2004 said on July 30th, 2012
Next route down the line: The B-Hole
6
dustonian said on July 30th, 2012
'bout time to cease your spineless point harvesting, Dave... get back out to this crag and send all the projects Mike and Andrew bolted for you
7
pumpout2004 said on July 30th, 2012
Talk to AlexAndEr here. He is in rifle right now, so he is fully accustomed to climbing choss... hehe
8
dustonian said on July 30th, 2012
yo' momma
9
pumpout2004 said on July 30th, 2012
j/k I have full intention of checking out these rigs in the coming months. And Alex doesn't climb anything without chalk, so he is out.
10
dustonian said on July 30th, 2012
cool. bring a brush ;)
11
AlexAndEr said on August 1st, 2012
Just make sure B-hole is close enough to tongue-punch so you could have some stupid rifle style link-up, and the best part is you could call tongue-punching the B-hole... It would be a classic.
12
ray said on August 13th, 2012
Great line. Well worth 20 feet of choss at the beginning.
13
dustonian said on September 2nd, 2012
kind of a pile with some great moves. bring a brush to speed this one along the "it'll clean up" path
14
chriss said on November 25th, 2012
Nice work Andrew! Enduring the choss is worth the awesome moves above. The top 2/3rds of this route is a blast.