Brouwer Power

This route is located in the Southern Region at Solar Collector and Gold Coast

Brambly Downslide


11b.
+0
0 votes

Buttsweat and Tears 5.10c (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Scott Curran, Jimmy Klaserner in 2012
Length: 65ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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The slab just left of Brambly Downslide. Slopey start up to cool finger locks and a devious crux.
Moves: Slab
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.69 stars (16 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11a (20 votes)

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Submitted by: Cromper
Date: Mar 5th, 2013

Comments

1
Cromper said on August 9th, 2012
Should clean up to be just as good as its neighbor. Bring a brush to help this one out.
2
Cromper said on October 9th, 2012
Cleaned this one up a little more over the weekend. Real fun climb, needs a stack of cheater stones for the start to reach the first hold if you are shorter than 6 foot.
3
Jeff said on November 4th, 2012
Tab bit sandbagged. A two star 10c or a three star 11b, meaning if you expect 10c, you won't enjoy this. Great climbing, washed clean after a rain so there's no chalk trail. Cool jump start.
4
Cromper said on November 4th, 2012
Glad you liked it Jeff! I always thought it was pretty damn hard for the grade but my partner that day swore it was 5.10 climbing.
5
Jeff said on November 4th, 2012
I can guess who that might have been ;)
6
dustonian said on November 5th, 2012
Not guilty! Agreed, this is a super fun route.
7
dustonian said on November 5th, 2012
Well I voted 10b actually ;) You should try Klaserner's Off with Batman for some more sandbaggy goodness!
8
Cromper said on March 5th, 2013
Ignore the tag and fixed line in the photo. Only picture I have of the route.
9
sycamore said on April 1st, 2013
Got on this thinking it was Brambly. Knew pretty quickly it was not 10a, but pulled through anyway and had a great time. However, 10c is just not an accurate rating. If the whole crag were sandbagged, that would be one thing. In this case, however, you've got an accurately rated 10a right next to it, and the disparity between the two climbs is much greater than 2 letter grades. I didn't think it was really any easier than Random Precision, which I think is an accurate 11b, and it was way more insecure. Just my opinion. Great climb, however- consistent the whole way up, and it's angle ensures no chalk to guide you.
10
Anonymous said on April 1st, 2013
Or perhaps you just have poor slab technique? Random Precision is more of a face climb, and squishy-soft at 11b anyways.
11
Cromper said on April 1st, 2013
Haha people have told me anywhere from 10a to 11b. Choose your own adventure.
12
Cromper said on April 1st, 2013
Get the grand daddy slab master Porkchop on this and we'll have a true grade consensus.
13
Willy said on April 26th, 2013
I agree with 10c now. I thought it was sandbagged to when it spanked me the first time but its actually pretty mellow with good beta.
14
krampus said on July 29th, 2013
I love some technical climbing and usually downgrade all the red river gorge "slab" climbs, however, this one is definitely sandbagged at 10c. The first two bolts alone bring it up to the 11 range. Fantastic climb though.
15
Anonymous said on July 29th, 2013
you should try some actual 5.11 slabs first to compare
16
Anonymous said on July 29th, 2013
kinda starts 5 feetish right of the first bolt, next time out ill add a new first bolt further right. scott. also i have no clue on grade, always feels hard to me haha
17
krampus said on July 29th, 2013
wow, anonymous climber, I'm so impressed with your implied world climbing portfolio, you must truly be a slab legend. In my humble and lesser climbing experience (which does include almost every vert/tech rout in the red) this thing was solid 11a, maybe more. It may be a 10a in Jtree though. Scott, the direct start was super fun. I did not think it needs to change, really nice work on this one.
18
dustonian said on July 29th, 2013
Maybe it is a little hard for the grade for the RRG, but we don't have that many true slab climbs here and most of them are grossly overgraded IMO.
19
krampus said on July 31st, 2013
shoot dustin, you called it 10b?? Now I know its an 11 :)
20
dustonian said on July 31st, 2013
Haha my friend from the Gunks called it 10a! ;) And it is a bit easier (& definitely less horrifying) than Toxic Avenger, one of the first 10+ "sport" routes in the Red...
21
Willy said on August 1st, 2013
No way Toxic Avenger is harder than this. TA has holds you can actually feel the whole way. I do agree RRG slabs are way over graded though.