Deeznuts

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Crossroads

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27.
+1
1 votes

Jingus Khan 5.12a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Dustin Stephens in 2012
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Just right of Deeznuts is this overhanging and technical crimpfest on solid stone. Begin with a few bolts of sticky friction jugs and horns to reach a rest at a hueco. Move out of the hueco into sustained big moves between decent edges.
Moves: Crimps
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
crimpy (2) stout (1) beautiful (1) fun (1) technical (1) contrived (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

3.88 stars (16 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (20 votes)

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Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Aug 14th, 2012

Comments

1
dustonian said on August 9th, 2012
Watch the branch up top, I'll be giving the tree a bad haircut sometime soon. Super cool features with some Funk Rock-style crimp-sanity!
2
ray said on August 13th, 2012
So damn good. Not a straight forward crimp ladder. Technical, pumpy, and tough moves on solid ass golden stone.
3
Brentucky said on August 13th, 2012
Excellent addition to the crag, and you even graded it correctly. ;-) Nice find dustonian.
4
dustonian said on August 13th, 2012
Only 2 tries, 'Tucky?? Time for a downgrade?? ;) PS You make good cookies.
5
krampus said on August 13th, 2012
great rout. Very fun climbing through the crux. I thought the grade the right on, at least till tucky got it on his second go.
6
dustonian said on August 13th, 2012
haha 11c max! :))
7
Rob Smith said on September 1st, 2012
Oh uh, I broke the good nugget hold at 2nd last bolt today, which was both a good hand hold and key high foot to finish final crux. That crux is now much harder. Doing the move with the hold was pretty cool and easy and now is a fight if you don't have a lot of reach. I think the route went from easy 12a to 12b, due to my fat-hold-breaking-ass. Still an excellent route Dustin. Thanks for your work.
8
dustonian said on September 4th, 2012
fat ass :)
9
Power2U said on October 1st, 2012
Nice rock, cool movement! Another nice addition to the crag of the future ;-)
10
One-Fall said on October 11th, 2012
Great eye, Dustin. Loved the movement.
11
pigsteak said on October 11th, 2012
Ill never send this thing. I gotta get on it earlier in the day....but I too love this line. I hate you dustin for putting another stinkin' line I have to hike to crossroads for....sigh.
12
dustonian said on October 11th, 2012
Thanks fellas. Cut down that offending branch if you every think of it Kipp, I think I did a pretty good job with that extra bolt on Swallow ;)
13
dustonian said on October 11th, 2012
If it makes you feel any better, Kipp... Brad fell on the crux. I was so shocked I barely remembered to catch him! ;)
14
Jeff said on October 11th, 2012
You'll send Kipp, heck, I'm close on it. Awesome line Dustin! If the branch is the old, really cool looking old Juniper that grows down from the top, I vote it stays. It doesn't interfere with the climbing, and when you lower, you are clear of it too.
15
dustonian said on October 11th, 2012
Maybe just a li'l Kentucky haircut on that one branch...
16
pigsteak said on October 12th, 2012
that makes me feel a TON better.......
17
dustonian said on October 12th, 2012
and here I thought my only purpose was to lower him from the anchor after a send....
18
Anonymous said on November 26th, 2012
Fun, interesting route, hopefully the crimps hold up but I wouldn't hold your breath
19
Anonymous said on November 28th, 2012
actually not a bad route, i'd give you thumbs up on this line, good moves other than people wondering way out left about midway up but once you get on track, the climb is good-T
20
z56o2 said on March 23rd, 2014
Might be time for some of the early climbers of this route to get back on. I suspect holds have broken and it's now considerably harder than 12a. If / when I send this thing I'm claiming a hard 12b / mild 12c. Amazing route though.
21
Anonymous said on March 23rd, 2014
Go further left at that part, def about mid-12 if you go direct
22
JonesyA said on June 2nd, 2014
Sweet techy movement on good stone! Hard for the grade.
23
halg said on August 11th, 2015
Not a bad route. Some brittle feet tho.
24
Sarahbelzile said on September 5th, 2017
Climbed this in mostly sunny conditions when the crimps felt greasy and it felt really sustained and techy through three bolts of cruxiness. Even getting up on the last ledge for the chains felt like work after the last three bolts. Definitely want to come back to this one on a crisp fall day and see how it feels. I was glad to hear others say that it feels stiff for the grade; I think it has several moves of interesting 12+ climbing. Glad to have played on this, thank you Dustin!