Ball Scratcher

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Motherlode

KAPOW!


11a.
+1
1 votes

The Cream Machine 5.10 (Sport)

First Ascent: Josh O'Bryan, John Seymer in 2011
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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A dirty slab line 30-40 feet right of Ball Scratcher.
Moves: Slab
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.93 stars (15 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (12 votes)

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Submitted by: Jeff
Date: Sep 10th, 2012

Comments

1
Anonymous said on August 10th, 2012
choss!!!
2
pumpout2004 said on August 10th, 2012
much like anal sex, this route is fun until about half way when it starts to get dirty. Then you begin to question what you are doing...but you finish anyway.
3
dustonian said on August 10th, 2012
you're the expert
4
Yasmeen said on August 14th, 2012
Thank you, pumpout. I lol'd.
5
One-Fall said on August 22nd, 2012
I disagree. This route should be on every slab lovers list. Wonderful movement. Talk your friend into hanging the draws :)
6
Cromper said on September 3rd, 2012
Pretty fun route! Just needs to be cleaned a little. Very fun moves on the upper low angle section. A route that is guaranteed to have every gym rat at the lode screaming and crying about how scary and horrible of a route it is. 3/4 star slab climbing anywhere else.
7
Jeff said on September 10th, 2012
Really fun route Josh, thanks for bolting it! I love solving puzzles :)
8
pigsteak said on October 3rd, 2012
Bring a brush no doubt, but i am a fan.
9
kafish2 said on October 3rd, 2012
Just curious if this is ever gonna be updated to reflect the FA and what they named it? A quote on the forum thread based on this route, "We named the route 'The Cream Machine", FA Josh O'Bryan and John Seymer 2011."
10
dustonian said on October 3rd, 2012
Only if Ray receives special favors
11
climb2core said on October 3rd, 2012
I was laughing at Pigsteak contemplating the moves from the 3rd to 4th bolt for 10 minutes... until I realized I was up next. Definitely dirty up top, but it is bolted with spice that will keep your attention. Do it once, preferably after your buddy has cleaned it.
12
kafish2 said on October 3rd, 2012
I heart Ray and his super fast turnaround on this... I am a bit sad I did not get to offer up any special favors though. What a dreamboat!
13
dustonian said on October 3rd, 2012
busy night, eh kafish?
14
Brentucky said on April 15th, 2013
Cool moves through the slabby section, but holy shit this thing was scary and runout through that section. If I had climbed this when I was a beginner gumby, as opposed to my current gumby status, I probably would have shit my pants. Today they only got a little wet.
15
nswelton said on November 25th, 2014
Had a scramble on this today. Felt about like a Joshua Tree 5.8. It's not even that dirty, and you can scrub the only holds that need scrubbing from really good feet. So bring a brush and just clean your way up. I think "dirty" needs to be removed from the description -- with more traffic, this would be a great route.