COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.


This route is located in the Southern Region at The Bright Side

Chica Loca

0 votes

Sandy Malone 5.11a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Scott Curran, Kyle Waldrop in 2012
Length: 40ft
Bolts: 4 (report bad bolts/anchors)

Click for more images
Head up the short hill from Pickpocket and walk left to the rock patio where this reachy line begins.
Moves: Crimps
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: RRGCC

Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus

2.47 stars (32 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10d (32 votes)

You must login to save your input!
+ add
+ add



Submitted by: ray
Date: Aug 19th, 2012


Cromper said on August 16th, 2012
Fun short route, the 11a version of little teapot. Putting chains on this tomorrow and she should be ready to ride. Also on the FA is Kyle Waldrop.
whoneedsfeet said on August 18th, 2012
A bit harder than 11a if you are vertically challenged. Still amazing route with super clean rock and super cool holds all the way up, awesome find Scotty boy.
Cromper said on August 18th, 2012
Chains on. As jimmy said, kinda reachy. Might move third bolt around in the future depending on how people are going through the crux.
dustonian said on September 2nd, 2012
Nothing sandy about this one, just perfect bomber rock and cool moves... if only it were longer! If you're under 5'6" or so you might want to go second, I can see some epics going down trying to clip the anchor.
Cromper said on September 7th, 2012
I'll fix the chains soon. God Dustin you and your shortman syndrome...
whoneedsfeet said on September 7th, 2012
Yeah fuck I even could reach the anchors Dustin.
dustonian said on September 7th, 2012
way to go, Napoleon
Willy said on October 1st, 2012
Crux is really easy for the vertically gifted. Clipping the chains is awkward for just about everyone I imagine. Had some fun belaying on the ledge and being pulled off left everytime my short friend whipped off
dustonian said on November 23rd, 2012
short, but great rock and a sublime location overlooking the back of Coal Bank holler
Rollo said on November 10th, 2013
Spikeddem said on March 23rd, 2014
This can easily be climbed even if the top is wet.
Jeff said on December 6th, 2015
Is that crap rock before the anchors? Sure is, but so cool how you don't even touch any of the mank clipping the chains. Fun route with a little bit of try hard crux. Can see it being difficult for the vertically impaired.