The "start" of the crag

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Midnight Surf

Starfish and Coffee


0.
+1
1 votes

Babyface 5.12b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Scott Curran, Dustin Stephens in 2012
Length: 100ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Midway between the Boneyard and Midnight Surf is this long jug haul with a high sloping crux. A 60 meter rope will barely get you back to the ledge from which you start the route so be sure to tie a knot in the end of your rope.
Moves: Jugs and slopers
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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4.5 stars (16 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12b (16 votes)

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Submitted by: dustonian
Date: Aug 28th, 2012

Comments

1
dustonian said on August 29th, 2012
Killer sloper reefing with some big Surfy moves thrown in. Belay from the ground, but stick clip the first bolt from the ledge and start climbing from there. The belayer should tie a knot in the end of the rope.
2
dustonian said on October 2nd, 2012
Don't be put off by a few spiderwebs on the starting ledge, a stickclip comes in handy to get them out of the way and you will need one anyway to clip the high first bolt
3
pigsteak said on October 6th, 2012
congrats on sending this dustin...any more planned for that part of the wall....we sure did walk right past it for years!
4
dustonian said on October 8th, 2012
may bolt an easy one way left of this, but the rest don't really seem to have reasonable starts
5
coolbreeze said on November 5th, 2013
This route is so good that I keep falling off it just to get back on it!!
6
dustonian said on November 5th, 2013
Haha thanks Ralph, kinda like me and Racer X! ;)
7
2tall said on September 16th, 2014
Awesome route! First two bolts look like dirty ledges but are actually pretty fun if you grab the right non-filthy spot. The rest of the route is pretty awesome, on par with Surf quality jug climbing with interesting sequences and even a couple real life slopers.
8
Anonymous said on April 17th, 2017
i think this will prove to be one of the better B's around once it has the history behind it that some of the "classics" do. really, really good.
9
heavyc said on April 20th, 2018
My favorite 12b in the Red, great moves, nice variety of holds & long, thanks for puting it up!