No Stick, No Clip

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Ivory Tower

Open Project 3


5.
+0
0 votes

Astrodog 5.12d (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Jimmy Farrell, Dustin Stephens in 2011
Length: 100ft
Bolts: 12 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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A spectacular line that goes all the way to the top of the monster wall. Crank a boulder problem start to sustained pumping moves leading to a good rest before two upper cruxes. The tree is somewhat close at this point, but if you don't push out the falls are fine.
Moves: unknown
Descent: unknown
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:
classic (1) beautiful (1) technical (1) pumpy (1) bouldery (1) stout (1) long (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.6 stars (5 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12d (7 votes)

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Comments

1
dustonian said on September 25th, 2012
This is a spectacular rock climb!
2
Dmack said on September 25th, 2012
Amazing climb!!!
3
dustonian said on September 26th, 2012
Dru Mack was quite the gentleman in not poaching the FA of this one, even though I got him all SIKED on it... thanks bud, you were key in putting a fire under Jimmy's ass. Let's get out there soon, man... once you wrap up Paradise?
4
dustonian said on September 26th, 2012
Oh yeah... 60m rope required! Tie a knot in the end of your rope.
5
Dmack said on September 26th, 2012
Haha "not poaching it" you told meto go do it, then asked me not to...hahahaha no worries, and i'd love to!!
6
pigsteak said on September 26th, 2012
typically developers like to get people on their new lines to scrub them clean and to suss out the crux sequences for us. then if we deem them in our ability range, we will pull the rug out from under you. or if we have a friend we like better. just the name of the game when you bolt hundreds of routes a year like dusty and I do....;)
7
dustonian said on September 26th, 2012
OK, maybe "poach" wasn't the right word. Jimmy had whipped from the top of this route several times (albeit one crux higher than I was getting), but his attempts were always months apart due to the need for a dogsitter for his pup Astro in order to make it out to Muir. BTW Dru, I like your "weasel beta" at the 2nd crux! I think it will go next try ;)
8
Dmack said on September 27th, 2012
HAHA Weasel beta would be stemming on the tree...i just grabbed the big holds a foot to the right of you guys...
9
jimmy said on September 28th, 2012
Either way you go at the 2nd crux, it's still a phenomenal route, and I don't think it changes the grade. I give Dru credit for looking around and finding an alternative sequence...I still think my beta is more fun, though! I feel pretty lucky that Dustin gave me the opportunity to get on it & I definitely think it's one of the best lines he's bolted. Sadly, because of the dog situation, it took me exactly 1 year & 1 week of sporadic visits to seal the deal. I had other names in mind, but after clipping the chains, this name just felt appropriate. Maybe someday Astro will get to see his namesake route...
10
Anonymous said on May 25th, 2013
I just tried this beauty yesterday, what a route! Very nice mixture moves. However, i feel the tree really cripples the route because of the potential tailbone crushing and spine-grating some of the sawed off stumps offer. An idea (that i tried successfully in Tonsai, Thailand with a similarly close tree) is to pull it out and away from the wall with an old climbing rope attached to another tree. Its very hard for its grade without chalked out holds. /Ola
11
dustonian said on May 26th, 2013
I've fallen from just about everywhere on the upper half of this route and never hit the tree. That said, with a slack belay I suppose it could happen... been toying with the idea of pruning the biggest branch up there. Agree that it is 12d.
12
ctb said on August 26th, 2013
This is a super cool, unique route! i agree it is hard for the grade. also, i measured it with a 100ft tape at Rick's request and had to reset! the total length came out to about 108ft +/- a few inches...
13
JR said on October 24th, 2013
Holy shit this rig is good!!!! Might be better than Cell Block 6!!!
14
dustonian said on October 24th, 2013
Nice work Justin!! 12c or d ya think?
15
JR said on October 29th, 2013
12c feels right.
16
zdordai said on May 15th, 2014
an epic undertaking, many cruxes to two tough back to back sections out of a mostly sit down rest. i climbed out right for the first crux out of the no hands but then headed back left on sidepull underclings and did a pretty tough sequence to gain the jugs between the last bolt and anchors. felt like those sidepulls were the hardest part with the pump. also...definitely 12d. and yes...better than cell block!! thanks dustin!
17
dustonian said on May 16th, 2014
Glad you liked it! Cell Block is pretty damn fun too tho and way less of an ordeal ;)
18
dustonian said on April 9th, 2016
No more stump of death lurking below the upper section of this one, way less 'engaging' now. Will probably bump up to 12d at some point.