Shootin' Hot Hugs

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory

EGBG


5.
+0
0 votes

Climactic Crush 5.11b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Andrew Wheatley in 2012
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Next line right of Shootin Hot Hugs.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light Rain
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.47 stars (43 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11c (55 votes)

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Submitted by: Andrew
Date: Sep 18th, 2012

Submitted by: Andrew
Date: Sep 18th, 2012

Comments

1
dustonian said on September 18th, 2012
looks awesome!
2
Anonymous said on September 18th, 2012
This thing looks great! And an interesting route name. Whats the reference if you don't mind me asking?
3
pigsteak said on September 18th, 2012
I was climbing next to andrew one day and took my shirt off..he fell in love instantly....true story.
4
Andrew said on September 18th, 2012
piggy speaks the truth
5
dustonian said on September 20th, 2012
Great climbing once you surmount the crumbly start
6
dustonian said on September 21st, 2012
P.S. Hard as piss, Andrew! But good...
7
Andrew said on September 21st, 2012
I am just trying to keep up with Scarlett Scorchdropper
8
pumpout2004 said on September 24th, 2012
EXTREME! Gave Scarlett a run for its money in difficulty...beware the soon to be exploding flake!
9
dustonian said on October 8th, 2012
totally EXTREME!!!
10
vegastradguy said on October 8th, 2012
hard- burly climbing with three desperate, powerful cruxes that are bound to get harder as the crimps shed off the route. We each broke off edges on key crimps on the route.
11
symardila said on October 16th, 2012
Climbed on 09/15/12 thinking it was "Shootin' Hot Hugs" since it wasn't yet posted in this website. real fun to climb except that every single hold had a tick mark on it. It kind of takes away the excitement of the unknown.
12
dustonian said on October 16th, 2012
Come on Symon, that's the "Wheatley touch"! I also thought this route was super fun with some very cool holds... people giving it 1 star have clearly never climbed on a new route before. This route is going to clean up to be a great technical 11!
13
Jeff said on November 2nd, 2012
Thought this was badass! Took 2 goes, first go "damn pumpy 11c". 2nd go, yeah, I can see 11b. Nice route Andrew
14
Bootney Farnsworth said on November 5th, 2012
Loved this route! May be a favorite! The bottom is very fun and it never quite lets up as you move the intial crux.
15
anticlmber said on March 16th, 2013
this wroute is good climbing. with that said, the last bolt placement, (far right and way up from the jugs you're on) and the unneccassary run out to the anchors make it not so enjoyable. don't care to risk a 30footer over slabby rock. kinda lets me down wheatley those two things really detract from an otherwise good climb
16
Andrew said on March 17th, 2013
Sounds like I need to move and add a bolt.
17
ray said on March 17th, 2013
Cool twisty moves. The runout is on big solid tongues so it didn't feel too bad but I'm not sure if the fall would be dangerous. Kinda reminds me of one of those Shady Grove chain runs. My wife wasn't phased by the runout either so maybe JR is just getting too estrogenny from working around all of those women.
18
Willy said on May 3rd, 2013
Bolting seemed spot on to me. Runout out isn't bad. The routes at Funk Rock, Emerald City, Eastern SkyBridge, etc. are spicier than this.
19
krampus said on May 12th, 2013
great rout, cleaning up nicely
20
climb2core said on May 13th, 2013
Great route!!! You just don't paddle up this one. Definite spice going to the chains, but the fall looked clean.
21
heavyc said on May 13th, 2013
don't know how anyone could give less than 4 stars for this, maybe their egos were damaged (or maybe it has cleaned up a bit), great route Andrew!
22
lena_chita said on May 28th, 2013
Awesome route. Haven't had so much fun in a while. Felt tough for 11b, but I am sure it would feel more like 11b if I were to go back knowing all the holds. I had to use a frog on the bolt after the crimp section, bc I couldn't hang the draw from what looked to be the obvious clipping stance, but now I know that the holds above that are better and it can be clipped at waist height.
23
Power2U said on April 27th, 2014
Solid rock, varied holds & movement, killer climb!
24
Jesse James said on September 28th, 2014
Heads up, there is a nasty widow maker above this climb as of 9/27/2014.
25
DrRockso said on September 24th, 2015
Fun route! Seemed sandbagged at 11b, and definitely an exciting finish when you're already pumped before the runout. Not sure it would be a safe fall if you botched clipping the chains.
26
AdamDugan said on October 8th, 2015
Trick your partner into hanging the draws on this one.
27
taurusclimber said on March 27th, 2016
The bolt past the crux is badly placed (can't be reached from an obvious clipping hold), and the lack of a bolt in the ~25ft runout to the chain make this climb way less enjoyable.
28
Anonymous said on March 27th, 2016
Not anywhere close to 25 ft. Lol
29
Anonymous said on March 27th, 2016
Yeah more like 12-15' tops on huge holds hahaha
30
Horatio Felacio said on April 20th, 2018
ledges every few feet, a few bolts need moved...someone is going to eat it on this thing. giving this above 3 stars explains everything in miller fork.
31
Anonymous said on April 20th, 2018
This isn't in Miller Fork you twat
32
Anonymous said on April 21st, 2018
A climber got pretty messed up on this one a couple weeks back. Fell up top in the runout section and flipped upside down hitting her hip.
33
Anonymous said on April 21st, 2018
Leg behind rope?
34
Anonymous said on August 21st, 2018
The most retarded aspect of climbing guidebooks is the lazy reliance on bullshit reference directions like 'line left of ---' . Unofrtunately it is practically ubiquitious, but to those using guidebooks, an insult, unless used sparsely. In instances where a daisy chain of 'route left/right of ---' is all there is to distinguish one relatively identical route from the next then fine. But this is bullshit, look at the fucking pictures-there is an enormous roof (? 30 feet high?) to a right facing dihedral,... begin blah blah feet left of this a two holds where I cut my dick off and jammed it into a pocket so I'd remember what the fuck. Thank you.
35
Anonymous said on August 21st, 2018
You're motivated, that's great! Now be the change son. And cut back on the day drinking and verbal diarrhea.
36
ray said on August 21st, 2018
I agree and that's why I did my best in the Miller Fork guidebook to avoid dependencies on referential integrity. However if you're referring to the description included for the route on this website then fuck off because this is free and you're lucky to have it. Grow some balls too anonymous.