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Mr. Bungle

This route is located in the Gray's Branch Region at Left Flank

 Brother Stair

6.
+0
0 votes

Maypop 5.11a (Sport) **

First Ascent: Porter Jarrard, Matt Flach in 1991
Length: 50ft
Bolts: 4 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the face about 10 feet right of Mr. Bungle. The line has a history of popping holds which has made the grade a bit stiffer.
Moves: Bouldery or Technical
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.86 stars (74 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11b (80 votes)

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Comments

33 comments {add your own comments}
1
tonybubb said on June 17th, 2003
I always figured this would be the gorge's first 5.13- when the rest of the holds broke off.
2
dj_ax said on June 3rd, 2004
I did this one many years ago before it did pop... It was much fun then!
3
pianomahnn said on June 15th, 2004
It feels harder than 5.11a, especially the start. The start is mad weird. If this is 11a, then the 5.10s at Muir Valley are not 5.10s. The rest of the route is quality, sharp, goodness.
4
Anonymous said on August 1st, 2004
This route does have a bouldery start is u can jump the good hold its definately rated right though i believe
5
Anonymous said on September 10th, 2004
this route is a ton of fun. the bottom is what makes the entire route. it's sick! i love it.
6
Roentgen Ray said on October 16th, 2004
This route will bring tough boulderers to tears.
7
Stewy911 said on February 23rd, 2005
id agree with 11b for the move but the rest os like 5.10a
8
neuroshock said on November 27th, 2005
the left anchor bolt hanger was missing yesterday. the bolt itself is still there. you can climb up and left to use the anchors of Mr. Bungle to rap off.
9
merrick said on November 29th, 2005
that is a hard boulder problem, though there are multiple ways to solve it. the technical climbing up above is really fun. it does need the left hanger replaced
10
dbrayack said on December 1st, 2005
I've climbed easier 11+s in the gorge, but I enjoy having my ego deflated so as done on this route!
11
chh said on April 24th, 2006
still missing one anchor bolt 4/23/2006. Interesting route. Several ways you could go about it even up until the bolt before anchors.
12
kek-san said on June 12th, 2006
I'm not surprised that the anchor has not been repaced. This route really has no redeeming features. I won't ever bother climbing it again.
13
Anonymous said on December 13th, 2006
As likeable as Henry!
14
Wolf said on December 15th, 2006
NO it's not.
15
sportclimber810 said on July 29th, 2007
iv heard alot of bad things things about this route but i want to climb it before its a 5.13
16
Andrew said on July 29th, 2007
no you don't
17
512OW said on July 29th, 2007
This is actually a good route... it just involves real climbing, so Andrew has a tough time...
18
Andrew said on July 30th, 2007
I never said I had a tough time, the only tough time I had was explaining to you that you could do it after your 50th attempt
19
Andrew said on July 30th, 2007
I never said I had a tough time, the only tough time I had was explaining to you that you could do it after your 50th attempt
20
512OW said on July 30th, 2007
Admittedly, that 50th run was tough. My skin was failing, my technique was getting sloppy and I had resorted to freakish displays of raw power. Its a shame you still couldn't get the beta for the boulder problem after that...
21
rjackson said on November 21st, 2007
Better bring your head and your guns, and leave your ego at home.
22
Anonymous said on April 25th, 2008
as of last week (4/19/08), the left anchor at the top was still MIA. like one previous guy said, the bolt is still in the wall, but the hanger is missing.
23
Anonymous said on May 12th, 2008
I watched someone deck from the third bolt on this route b/c he was about 10 feet off route to the right and his belayer wasn't paying attention/didn't know how to catch a fall on an atc. The belayer was able to actually grab the rope and burn the hell out of his bare hands before the guy hit the ground at full speed.
24
Brentucky said on November 26th, 2008
so i "finally" cruised the start after many shut down attempts in the past, figured i was pretty much done when i clipped the 2nd, and then all hell broke loose! WTF! what is between the 2nd and 3rd barely counts as holds to us 11 climbers, and the temps were PERFECT! perhaps that might be where something popped if it indeed did?
25
512OW said on November 27th, 2008
Nope... all still there. Most of whats left is solid.
26
Anonymous said on June 15th, 2009
still missing one anchor bolt 6/14/09
27
Climbingrocks said on June 27th, 2009
Note to self...don't ever do this climb again. Don't ever look at it...don't ever think about it. Forget it exist!
28
langvd said on July 20th, 2009
Still missing hanger at anchor, bring a long trad draw to reduce drag and an extra draw to continue to the anchors of the next climb.
29
Rollo said on January 30th, 2011
I've onsighted up to 11c but i must say... at a meager 11a, this is probably my proudest. Granted, it's not my style but i felt it was piss hard.
30
dustonian said on August 13th, 2012
New anchor 8/12. Thanks to JJ for doing the work and providing the el beefo hardware. This route is super good!
31
Willy said on May 19th, 2014
Not sure what all the fuss is about with this route. Holds are solid, moves are decent and the grade is inflated if anything. Would be a good route for those breaking into the 5.11 grade
32
Chiyram said on April 25th, 2016
This is solid 11b. Pretty tough getting up past the first bolt. Not recommended for someone breaking into the grade.
33
tazunemono said on July 2nd, 2017
Solid V2- boulder problem off the ground, helps if you're 5'10" or taller. I was able to milk the RH undercling and snag the LH "bowling ball" pinch, and after that its 5.10+ and backs off the higher yo go. Def. deserves more than 2 stars.