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Climactic Crush

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory

 R. Kelly Ethics

6.
+2
2 votes

EGBG 5.10a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Mike Wheatley, Andrew Wheatley in 2012
Length: 90ft
Bolts: 12 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Next line right of Climactic Crush. Bust through the low crux and enjoy the long and meandering route on nearly all jugs.
Moves: Jugs
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.03 stars (87 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10a (67 votes)

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Comments

29 comments {add your own comments}
1
Andrew said on September 24th, 2012
Really fun route, seems like it goes on forever. A nice adventure sport route. Nice job dad.
2
Enoch309 said on October 1st, 2012
OK, I gotta know. What does EGBG stand for ? Nice route.
3
heavyc said on October 5th, 2012
great route!, I think one of the best in the Red at this grade
4
vegastradguy said on October 8th, 2012
fantastic route, super long with an exciting start! A stick clip is highly recommended, as a fall at the start due to a slip or rock breaking would be disastrous.
5
dustonian said on October 15th, 2012
bolted crack. some fun climbing but wasn't crazy about the sheath-shredding anchor placement.
6
caribe said on October 15th, 2012
Belayer beware. EGBG rock is still breaking quite a bit. I threw a couple fist-sized chunks of the route.
7
Spikeddem said on October 17th, 2012
I think the route name is a reference to EBGB. There's a J Tree route named EBGB, which references to the creepy "heebiegeeies" that you get while climbing it. My guess anyway. Perhaps the name would be fitting considering how difficult it is to move through some of this route with confidence in the quality of the rock. It's one thing to be concerned a hand will blow; it is another when it's the block you're standing on 10 feet above your belayer. Fun though!
8
Anonymous said on October 18th, 2012
this route should be removed- you bolted a crack from 2nd bolt to the 8th- the crack went on gear, bolt a face
9
dustonian said on October 18th, 2012
Cromper's mom should be removed.......... from my pants
10
whoneedsfeet said on October 18th, 2012
You wish cromper's mom was in your pants. You have to be classy, bitches love when you're classy.
11
Andrew said on November 5th, 2012
I could be wrong about the details, but my dad said he moved the anchors to eliminate rubbing and rope drag. He also moved bolts 3-6 away from the crack to ease rope drag and to get them away from the crack. I think the moved bolts are now glue-ins. Enjoy this slightly less bolted crack.
12
dustonian said on November 5th, 2012
nice. this route is destined to be one of the most popular moderates in the Red! great warmup.
13
Jeff said on November 5th, 2012
Climbed it last week and didn't notice any issues with the anchors. However, just a heads up, if you are going to pull rope with your draws still hung so it can be led again, be SURE to unclip at a minimum from up high to #3, if not all but #1. We pulled rope without unclipping anything. Rope came down, at #4 it wrapped over the plate, and pulling on it only wedged it into a perfect rope squeezing constriction. It would not budge. (Posted this from "recent comments" page, not sure where that post went)
14
Andrew said on November 5th, 2012
I had the same thing happen and so did dave. Just speculating, but since the 3-6 have been moved I am betting the chances of that happening are now much lower.
15
Jeff said on November 5th, 2012
Ask your dad when he shifted bolts. We did it 11/1/12 last Thursday.
16
Michael_W said on November 5th, 2012
I raised the anchors a couple of feet and moved bolts 4, 5 and 6 left 3 feet on Friday, Nov. 2. Moving the anchors up also pushed them out reducing rope drag when lowering off the route. I also knocked off a few suspect holds. The route is now a 5 star 5.15.b. Game on.
17
dustonian said on November 5th, 2012
Haha! You da man, Mike!!
18
mssmith said on November 19th, 2012
Great line! Needs a solid gangbanging by the UK, IU, MU, UC, EKU outdoor clubs. Just like a certain someone's mom.
19
michaelarmand said on December 3rd, 2012
This is a good line, worth all the drama:-)
20
twan said on December 4th, 2012
Hell of a route. Favorate 10 by far.
21
twan said on December 4th, 2012
Ha oops.. Favorite.
22
Willy said on February 11th, 2013
mssmith forgot to mention "THE" OSU outdoor adventure club as well. They'd clean this rig up in a weekend. Nothing broke when I was on it but I was definitely being ginger with a few holds. I'll definitely pull a little harder next time to help it along when my belayer is wearing a helmet and I've stick clipped the first bolt. Its a spicy run up there if you don't
23
climb2core said on May 13th, 2013
I had a couple of friends that asked that I pass along their respect to the developer of this line. They said it was hands down their favorite 10a in the Red. I got on it today, and it is a great addition to the crag and I am glad it got bolted. Thanks putting it up!!! Ian
24
lena_chita said on May 28th, 2013
I felt like I was climbing pretty far to the right of the bolts for most of the route. I guess I am one of those bad people that clip bolts while climbing the crack? (But I swear, I wasn't REALLY climbing the crack!)
25
Alberto Lacayo Jr said on March 27th, 2014
Totally enjoyable. Pulling the shelf at the start is bomber.
26
Power2U said on March 31st, 2014
Tallest 10 in the Red? Definitely a fun one!
27
Chiyram said on April 14th, 2014
Amazing first couple of bolts and it just stays awesome. My new contender for my favorite 10 in the Red.
28
jlu said on March 22nd, 2015
5.10a for the start only - pretty easy 5.8-9 after of 90' of the same jugs over and over to the end. Long and exposed with a beautiful view.
29
THB said on May 9th, 2016
Very nice route. This one has got to be high on the list of best easy 10s in the gorge. Nice one! (And good length too!)