This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory


0 votes

R. Kelly Ethics 5.10c (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Meghan Curry, Art Cammers in 2012
Length: 120ft
Gear: Hands, Fingers, and Big (report bad anchors)

Click for more images
To the right of EGBG, burl hard off the ledge and over the low roof. The finger-size gear at the roof is bomber, but quickly degrades in the next 10 ft. Ascend up and left around the arete. About 1/3 of the line overlaps with EGBG which veers left to its anchors. Stay trad, climbing straight up to top out through a techy offwidth (#4 + #5 BD). Belay your second from a tree. There is decking potential for the second at the ledge-roof start; the arete eats rope; and the top-rope sharply exalts the grade of the start. Drop the rope to the start of EGBG for the second. Rap off a tree (~7 m) down to the anchors of EGBG then to the ground.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Rap off a tree (~7 m) down to the anchors of EGBG
Stays Dry:
Owner: Private

Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus

3 stars (1 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10c (1 votes)

You must login to save your input!
+ add
+ add



Submitted by: caribe
Date: Oct 15th, 2012


caribe said on October 15th, 2012
The trad and sport overlapping is OK this time. Beginners can clip bolts and place gear. This is a great school for people learning trad. I would make a beeline here if I were learning to place gear. ♦ The overlap between EGBG and R. Kelly is less than 50% with the most 'interesting' trad at the bottom and the top where there is no overlap at all. Compared to the bottom and the top of R. Kelly, EGBG feels like a ladder. Also EGBG anchors provide a good rap point for Kelly. ♦ Bolting cracks is a forbidden in general. I am just trying to see the bright side of this one. ♦ The rock and EGBG is still breaking quite a bit. I threw a couple fist-sized chunks of the route. "Where's the dog? . . . bombs away."
caribe said on October 15th, 2012
Meghan came up with the name. It is brilliant!
dustonian said on October 16th, 2012
Nice one you guys, this thing looks super fun! PS Sir Arthur didn't you toprope this? Ethics police is on patrol.
caribe said on October 16th, 2012
I TRed/ seconded up the start of EGBG to the top. Then I led the ledge-roof start and around the arete. It's a hard start with iffy pro, but it's death-defying on TR. The start is the only reason for the 10 grade. Why do you care? Creepy . . . :-)
dustonian said on October 16th, 2012
Oh yes, I am very interested--and creepy. I have noticed that you are the king of bailing on traditiona topropes after deeming them hazardous ;)
dustonian said on October 16th, 2012
Are you implying that Andrew is a pedophile who likes to urinate on people? If so, carry on.
Anonymous said on October 17th, 2012
A 10c, low crux with questionable protection? I don't see how this would be a good route for learning to climb on gear. Granted I haven't climbed it, but from visual inspection and descriptions elsewhere, this is the conclusion I have reached. Sounds like a better way to learn gear would be to protect the naturally-protectable, easier top sections of EGBG.
dustonian said on October 17th, 2012
Cromper's mom also makes a great practice traditional climb, just make sure you use protection!!
Spikeddem said on October 17th, 2012
Didn't mean to post anonymously. That comment above was from me.
Anonymous said on October 18th, 2012
that was a sweet send Meg- glad i got to see some of it, looked awesome- stay trad.- no bolts needed
caribe said on October 18th, 2012
Spikeddem: That's what I meant (of course). Climb the sport route w/ draws and gear to learn how to place pieces.