Toker

This route is located in the Southern Region at Bob Marley Crag

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3a.
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Moment of Truth 5.12c (Mixed) ****

First Ascent: Andrew Gearing, Dustin Stephens in 2012
Length: 90ft
Bolts/Gear: 2/standard rack including stoppers, plus one 6-7" cam (report bad bolts/anchors)

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The striking steep corner just left of No Redemption. Clip a bolt for a low crux to gain the stemming corner (long slings), then continue up to a good stance beneath the intimidating offwidth slot (new #6 or old #5 size), then launch into the 2nd crux. A decent rest and some pro in a pigeon nest lie above, followed by another series of tough moves out the final roof. Wimp out and descend from the No Redemption anchor, or continue soul-climbing up the airy face to a bolted anchor at the top of the cliff. Belay your second here and rap or walk off to climber's left. You can also lower from the upper anchor if you have a cordelette or a few slings to extend the anchor.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Bolted anchor
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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5 stars (1 votes)
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5.12c (1 votes)

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Comments

1
dustonian said on October 16th, 2012
Spectacular stemming and lieback corner... this route hurt my ass so bad (but so good)!!!
2
dustonian said on October 16th, 2012
AG's onsight FFA was an epic battle between good & evil and one of the most impressive climbing efforts I have ever personally witnessed. Where was the videographer??
3
pigsteak said on October 16th, 2012
you send as well dustin? I heard it is a striking line.
4
dustonian said on October 16th, 2012
Not free on lead and don't really plan to anytime soon... this beast is hard & scurry!! On that note, it makes a very nice clean A1 or A2 for those of that inclination ;) Thanks to the FFA's talent, it survived less than a week as a proud aid climb!
5
Anonymous said on October 16th, 2012
great. now we'll get aid climbers ruining everything with their disgusting fat bodies and embellished stories from their week in the Valley.
6
dustonian said on October 16th, 2012
hey man, my very gradual muffintopped lead of this glorious 5.11 A1 only made it that much better!
7
dustonian said on November 13th, 2012
a.k.a. "Shaddowbooty"