R. Kelly Ethics

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory

Eternal Fire


8.
+1
1 votes

Icebreaker 5.12a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Dustin Stephens, Margarita Martinez in 2012
Length: 85ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Just left of Eternal Fire is this high-quality climb at a comparatively moderate grade. Traverse the lip of the roof on heel hooks to gain the crux blunt arete followed by spectacular technical face climbing to the top of the wall. Get a spot and keep the rope slack for the first couple of moves, or just go old-school hang the first draw while climbing. The crux moves moving right at the third bolt are 12a for the reach- impaired.
Moves: Roof to technical face
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Private
Steepness:
arete (1) vertical (1) technical (1) beautiful (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.05 stars (20 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12b (26 votes)

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Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Oct 23rd, 2012

Comments

1
Anonymous said on October 23rd, 2012
damn it Dustin, you took my next line. man i was really eyeballin that sucker, i almost bolted it when i was just there, shit shit shit--- well good work bro, you beat me to the punch on this 1, i can't sluff anymore i see. cant wait to climb it, looks pretty good troy
2
Anonymous said on October 24th, 2012
I was going to start that line to the left 10' thou, better lookiin start
3
dustonian said on October 24th, 2012
Maybe if you like sand and choss
4
Anonymous said on October 25th, 2012
leaf blower and prybar- ta da
5
dustonian said on October 25th, 2012
Well that's one idea, or just don't bolt choss
6
Anonymous said on October 25th, 2012
Route would have been much better in my opinion if it began further left. -J
7
dustonian said on October 25th, 2012
Why don't you climb it first before hosing down on the intardweb? This kind of empty spray is straight-up lame. Stick clip the second bolt and start in the choss if you really want, it wouldn't change the grade, just decrease the quality.
8
Anonymous said on October 25th, 2012
I already did climb it and really wish you would have started it further left. Now it's just a wasted section of rock with a route not as good as it could have been. -J
9
pumpout2004 said on October 25th, 2012
Kick his ass SeaBass!!!
10
pigsteak said on October 26th, 2012
someone has thin skin....
11
dustonian said on October 26th, 2012
more accurately, low patience for ignorant armchair spray. Fun 5.10 start on nice solid jugs out right or 1-star 5.8 sand-fest on choss to the left, hmmm... it is easy enough to start in the sandy "wasted section of rock" if one really wanted to so badly, just stick clip the 2nd bolt and put on a helmet & your choss goggles.
12
Spikeddem said on October 26th, 2012
How is it armchair if they have actually gone out and done everything they've suggested?
13
Anonymous said on October 26th, 2012
Our opinions greatly differ of what constitutes choss. However had you not been in such a hurry to bolt everything you see without first toproping it you could have created a better route for everyone. Now the opportunity is gone since you decided to treat developing like a race.
14
dustonian said on October 26th, 2012
Haha WTF!?! You need to get laid Troy.
15
Anonymous said on October 27th, 2012
Do you think Troy would drive down just to climb your route this past week? Do us all a favor and go move those bolts to the left where the true line is. -J
16
dustonian said on October 27th, 2012
No thanks I like to climb good rock, not sand. Feel free to add a variation start if the 12 feet of choss really calls out to you in a special way.
17
dustonian said on October 27th, 2012
The nearest good rock to the left is Art & Meg's trad line, don't go anywhere near that or they might go on a jihadist rampage. BTW anon I suspect you are lying about having climbed this route, or you would agree that the right start is fun juggy 5.9. What was the crux like?
18
Anonymous said on October 27th, 2012
I didn't feel a crux. If you continue bolting every section of rock you see then all of the best lines will be messed up just as this and the entire bright side are.
19
dustonian said on October 27th, 2012
I know, especially the ones Kipp, Andrew, Mike, Scott, and Jimmy bolted! Your bitterness is adorable.
20
Anonymous said on October 28th, 2012
Their stuff is fine. Crown of thorns starts way too far left adding an awkward traverse to the right. Let's have some standards here. If you can't find a plumb line then don't bolt it.
21
rockman said on October 28th, 2012
possibly your best route dustin. 5* movement on 4.75* rock. Really Really good.
22
pigsteak said on October 28th, 2012
anon, now you are just being a dick. give to the climbing community instead of hashing on those who already are....
23
Anonymous said on October 29th, 2012
I have given more to the NE than you will ever have a chance to give to your little state. PLUMB LINES ONLY
24
Anonymous said on October 29th, 2012
Nebraska? You bring new meaning to the word "moron."
25
cliftongifford said on October 29th, 2012
I'm pretty sure the states in the NE are 'little' compared to KY. There's more rock in KY than you could ever imagine. "Thanks Dustin and Kipp for all the hard work you've done in The Red and elsewhere" is what you should say. Not bitch and moan about their efforts to put up routes for you and I to enjoy, then brag about how much you've done somewhere else... We don't even know your name, maybe you did, maybe you didn't.
26
Anonymous said on October 29th, 2012
Plumb lines don't always make the best route jack ass. Crown of Thorns is a stellar line and perfectly bolted IMO. Can't wait to get on Icebreaker... thanks Dustin! Anon, why don't you share who you are so we can all appreciate your genius.
27
climb2core said on October 29th, 2012
Last comment was by me. Didn't realize I wasn't logged in.
28
Anonymous said on October 29th, 2012
hey that wasnt me, i stopped bitchin earlier- someone else doesn't like it i guess- leave me outta it troy
29
Chuckdott said on October 29th, 2012
Very few routes have the opportunity to start with a 20 ft lip traverse on heel hooks. It would be a shame to waste that feature. Nice bolting, keep up the good work
30
Anonymous said on October 30th, 2012
Had you all followed the principle of plumb lines you would have a much less crowded area of high quality lines similar to the New River Gorge. But instead you have created a community cesspool of half-ass contrived sport climbs leading to the official big-boxing of sport climbing. Rip out half your lines and bring back tranquility to the area the way it used to be. -J
31
Anonymous said on October 30th, 2012
oh shit, the retarded troll escaped his cage again
32
pigsteak said on October 30th, 2012
yeah I hated it when military was so pristine then some dude bolted a line on the 12 wall...then another, then another, then another, and my gosh another....o wait, that guy was named Porter and he also bolted at the New?????? nooooo, can't be....someone must have came back and grid bolted around reliquary..it was the plumb line brah.....and to think that was in 1990 before anon was probably even a twinkle in his parents eye...
33
Anonymous said on October 31st, 2012
You all bitch about crowds yet refuse to stick to a plumb line policy. The solution is so simple. Stick to the natural lines. I know you wouldn't sell as many guidebooks Pigsteak but the area would stop suffering.
34
Cocoapuffs1000 said on October 31st, 2012
If I read the word "plumb line policy" one more fucking time I'm going to black out. Can you please find another less pretentious word to describe the shit you're spewing? Perhaps the word "good" or "not fucked up" would do. This drivel is worse than people going on about the "purest style" of climbing...
35
Anonymous said on October 31st, 2012
dear anonymous shitbag, please do us all a favor and never come to the red again if you are so above it. do you even know what "plumb" means?
36
tbwilsonky said on October 31st, 2012
sigh.
37
pigsteak said on October 31st, 2012
define "suffering"...the rrgcc loves the people and the publicity as it helped them secure the pmrp. just keep in mind when a place has blown up or is suffering, you are part of the problem if you use the resources. the honorable thing to do is stop climbing here to help the rest of us with the overcrowding...but my guess is you feel as entitled to peace and quiet and climbing on the plumb lines (sorry coco, had to) as the next wunderkid...maybe table tennis would be more to your liking, or at least climb only indoors. gyms are known for plumb lines.
38
climb2core said on October 31st, 2012
Dustin, I think you need to rename this line in recognition of Anon.... Suggestions: Better plum than plumb. Plumb Dumb. The Plumbers Line.
39
whoneedsfeet said on October 31st, 2012
The red has contrived lines? The hole at the new is the epitomy of contrived sport lines bruh.
40
dustonian said on October 31st, 2012
not unlike Cromper's mom... always a buncha dudes lined up for her
41
Anonymous said on November 1st, 2012
Define suffering? Suffering is not having established policy in place to ensure that only experienced route developers are allowed to put up routes in addition to a requirement for plumb lines only. Exclude those two items from the world's best sport climbing area and you have an otherwise spectacular climbing destination suffering from a plague of zig-zagging squeeze jobs. You people are destroying your own climbing area.
42
Anonymous said on November 1st, 2012
no, true suffering is reading comments from a fucktard imbecile such as yourself who inexplicably thinks anyone cares about the moronic diarrhea sputtering out of your bleeding rectum of a brain. do the world a favor & put yourself out of your misery! :)
43
tbwilsonky said on November 1st, 2012
oh, you're a perfectionist? shades of Quincy.
44
Spikeddem said on November 1st, 2012
I like the name.
45
der uber said on November 4th, 2012
Noticed chalk from people traversing in from Eternal Fire to skip the opening moves. Feels 12a at least. Initial roof problem are the best moves of the route.
46
dustonian said on November 4th, 2012
nyuk nyuk
47
der uber said on November 4th, 2012
Thanks dustin! Knucks back at ya
48
chriss said on November 21st, 2012
Really enjoyable from the second bolt on. I have a hard time calling the opening section 5.9. I found it a bit ackward ... but you quickly forget about the start.
49
Anonymous said on November 21st, 2012
When the developer"s balls drop lets hope , he becomes teachable. Take him to some well done classics of the Red and educate. This heal hooking business is beyond gay and ruins an average climb. Did you just decide to wake up and fail or does it just come naturally.
50
der uber said on November 23rd, 2012
Where is the heel hook? Sounds like you skipped the opening problem by traversing in from Eternal Fire.
51
ray said on March 22nd, 2013
Very cool and interesting line. Felt tough for me. Very small crimps. I kept thinking i made it through the crux but they kept coming! Nice work Dustin.
52
krampus said on May 11th, 2013
lots of fun, i couldnt believe i was hanging on to those little holds.
53
climb2core said on May 13th, 2013
I walked over to look at this line, not remembering any of the plumb line entertainment. I made a comment to my friend that it seemed like the line would have better entered from the left. That way it would be easy to unclip the first bolt after you clipped the second. I will do as Dustin suggested and clip the second bolt and give it a try. Not trying to stir the pot... just found it ironic that I thought the same as Troy. Of course I have no idea how the rock quality is.
54
super safe ian said on May 13th, 2013
Also! I forgot to mention PLEASE NOBODY ATTEMPT THIS until I report back on relative safety of this approach!
55
jimmy said on May 13th, 2013
...or you could just climb it the way Dustin bolted it...maybe he's got a better eye than you. It's super fun. Get over it.
56
pigsteak said on May 13th, 2013
I have said this before and believe credit goes to Hugh. When I am gone from the climbing scene, will the next generation please fix any botched bolting I have done....it wont offend me. developers r human and we get it wrong. but as long as I am here, let me fix it, climb it as is, or ignore it and move on.
57
climb2core said on May 13th, 2013
So Kipp, are you saying you don't want feedback on your routes?
58
climb2core said on May 13th, 2013
Also, lets be clear that I haven't ever referred to anyone's work as a "botched bolting job' and this line is no exception. I appreciate the time and money that any developer has put into any line. I simply thought that a variant intro into the route looked worthwhile enough to try. Dustin suggested clipping the 2nd bolt and trying the variant himself. I will, and if I find myself swimming in an unending sea of choss, I will happily jump back on to let everyone know that Dustin was absolutely correct. If I find it climbs well and is fun, I would suggest it as a variant intro for people to try if they like. NBD... its just kids out playing on the rock. Sheesh.
59
crimpandpeel said on May 14th, 2013
Hey don't go draggin my name around the mud- just call me "that other guy"- thou am curious how it goes- not a bad route if it keeps getting all this clatter chatter, none of it matters anyway- folks are gonna climb it right, way out right, try straight up, come in from the left and if they can't do that, try way out left. Its just another climb in a sea of many other routes, some will love it/ some hate it. Thanks again D on putting in the time and effort
60
Anonymous said on June 22nd, 2013
Please stop putting those rounded bolts as the first bolt. They are almost impossible to stick clip without a good angle which is hard to achieve. They are the glue bolts.
61
whoneedsfeet said on June 22nd, 2013
I've never had trouble getting it into the hole, sounds like a personal problem to me.
62
monty4355 said on June 22nd, 2013
I always thought it easier to stick clip a glue in... and lets be honest Jimmy how many holes are you really poking living at LOTA?
63
dustonian said on June 22nd, 2013
There are plenty of small-diameter holes at LOTA.
64
Rob Smith said on February 20th, 2015
Really enjoyed this route Dustin!
65
Willy said on September 27th, 2015
This one doesn't let up on you. Felt like a more sustained version of deep six
66
Brentucky said on October 24th, 2016
This is close to a 5-star route for me, but I'm a little stingy so it just barely misses the mark due to the fact that you have to stand on cheater stones to grab some holds way out right to start the route. Nonetheless, the heel hook traverse from the right is actually very cool and unique with perfect jugs and heels. It will also give non-12 climbers ample time to contemplate on how awesome they are and how their onsite is still intact prior to entering the remaining 75 feet of kick-ass that lies ahead. This route involves some pretty damn amazing route-finding with a few tiny holds and/or big moves (or big moves to tiny holds) so it takes a nice balance of finesse and power to send this one. Awesome rock climb!
67
dustonian said on October 24th, 2016
Glad you had fun Tuck. Actually, the original route did not use the cheater stack, it easily goes without. You have to go back and do it again now, and I know how you enjoy throwing cheater stones down the hill.
68
Anonymous said on October 25th, 2016
clearly didn't follow the principle of the plumb line standard.
69
pigsteak said on October 26th, 2016
hopefully you'll send next time without the cheater stones Brent.....at least now you have the beta.
70
Chiyram said on December 3rd, 2018
This is a sweet route. The traverse in is pretty fun in my opinion. The face climbing afterwards is amazing. Felt tough having those boulder problems stacked like they are though.