Enkidu

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory

Storm Gutter


84.
+0
0 votes

Mr. P. 5.10b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Michael Albers in 2012
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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25 feet right of Enkidu.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: Private
Steepness:
pinches (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

1.86 stars (35 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10d (36 votes)

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Comments

1
Dmack said on November 19th, 2012
Ground fall going from bolts 3 to 4, awful rock quality. Good movement at the start..with another bolt it could be a decent route..Also more like 10d..
2
dustonian said on November 20th, 2012
Needs some work, but the climbing is good. Not recommended for 5.10 climbers.
3
climb2core said on November 20th, 2012
Any way to make it safer?
4
neeko said on November 22nd, 2012
not safe at all! Could be fun with a lower 3rd bolt and a bolt between 3rd and 4th.
5
pigsteak said on November 23rd, 2012
yes, would the developer please fix this before leaving the area..this route is not acceptable as is. I rarely if ever will diss on a fellow developer, but this needs some re-engineering. drop bolt three a bit, add one above it in good rock, and what is now bolt four probably needs to be a glue in...that rock is like sand at a beach and merely an accident in waiting.
6
dustonian said on November 23rd, 2012
Yep, my thoughts exactly on the adjustments Kipp. I should be able to get to it at some point this winter.
7
Josephine said on November 24th, 2012
This needs an x rating until its fixed.
8
dustonian said on November 24th, 2012
I wouldn't say it's X, that is usually reserved for the possibility of a groundfall from the crux moves. The cruxes of this route are well protected enough (although the 4th bolt is poorly placed).
9
pigsteak said on November 25th, 2012
r-you fall you might get seriously hurt x-you fall you will get hurt in an ugly way this route is just poor design.
10
Spikeddem said on November 25th, 2012
I think it's important like Dustin said to incorporate the likelihood of a fall (how does the runout's climbing compare to the route's overall grade?) into the danger rating. You wouldn't say a route like Funkadelic is R, right? It has the potential for what would easily be a 30+ footer onto slab, but the route is 5.10 and the runout is 5.6 so nobody really cares. Of course rock quality at the red can throw a curveball sometimes since fragile rock can be out of our control at times. This was actually my concern on the runout of Geezers Go Sport.
11
Raiden said on December 7th, 2012
FWIW I thought the bolting was fine. I remember the climbing from 3-4 being easy and standing on a ledge to clip. As others have said there are a lot of fragile holds and loose rock that need to be cleaned up. I would also agree that this is 10+ and would not be a good route for a 5.10 climber.
12
pigsteak said on December 7th, 2012
make sure and look closely at the rock behind bolt 4..I bet you change your mind....
13
dustonian said on December 7th, 2012
Yeah I wonder if anyone's actually whipped on that thing yet...?
14
Andrew said on March 11th, 2013
This route is truly awful. It would be mediocre if bolted properly, but the current bolt job makes the climbing un-fun and dangerous. It really should be fixed not only for safety reasons, but to add a moderate to the crag.
15
dustonian said on March 11th, 2013
I've got the bolts if you or Mike are in the mood to do it.
16
Andrew said on March 11th, 2013
Almost every bolt will need to be moved, but the route can surely be salvaged, but I am not sure I want to have my name associated with this route. Granted, I have put up worse.
17
Willy said on May 10th, 2013
Hammered some choss off today and added three new glue in bolts to take the scary out of this thing. I dropped bolt three down next to good clipping hold, added a new fourth bolt, and replaced what is now the fifth bolt. The climbing is decent so it should be enjoyable now that its a bit safer.
18
Anonymous said on May 30th, 2013
Just a head's up the anchor on this climb is currently just two bolts with one extra large quick link on each. I didn't have chains with me and a regular size quick link wouldn't fit over the big ones. Probably a rope twister in its current state.
19
Alberto Lacayo Jr said on March 27th, 2014
Some dicey clips on the lower section and a bit dirty. With more traffic and perhaps an extra bolt, this would be a more enjoyable climb. Top section was great!
20
JR said on April 8th, 2014
O boy! Felt like I was trad climbing up there. "jesus, I hope I don't fall!" P.s. The left anchor bolt is kinda wobbly. Seemed to pull straight out a 1/4 inch??? Maybe it just needs tightened??? Not sure.
21
lena_chita said on May 5th, 2014
Still a rope-twister anchor with one quicklink on each bolt. Didn't notice the wobbling left anchor, not sure if it was fixed. Adding couple quicklinks won't be difficult, but I honestly would hate to climb this route one more time, even with charitable purpose in mind. Kind of ironic that i got on the best (Robotic Thumb) and the worst 5.10 route on the same day, within a few feet of each other.
22
DrRockso said on February 8th, 2015
One of the worst routes I've been on at the grade, put another bolt on the run out to the chains. Rock is super crumbly and potential to hit the ledge from a couple spots. Would not do again.
23
Chiyram said on February 8th, 2015
I'm pretty sure this is the worst 10 I've done as of yet in the Red. Really fingery moves for 3 bolts, pretty terrible crawl into the waco and then pretty certain ledge falls for most of the rest of the route. Oh and terrible rock quality, broke and crumbled several holds.
24
Spikeddem said on February 10th, 2015
Really bad. 1 star. Seems dangerous still (ledge concerns)?
25
Anonymous said on April 25th, 2016
do not get on this...
26
Jeff said on October 29th, 2016
The things I do to up my route count...
27
Anonymous said on October 29th, 2016
Climb something after 50 comments telling you otherwise?
28
Jeff said on October 29th, 2016
Yep!
29
Anonymous said on October 29th, 2016
Does the climbing suck on this route or is it only bad because of the bolt placements?
30
Chiyram said on October 31st, 2016
Depends if you like sandy crumbly moves on bolting that probably can't be fixed.
31
Jeff said on October 31st, 2016
I think those who fixed this by adding bolts have done a good job. The only other way to fix it would have been to strip it. My thoughts while climbing.. feels hard for 10a (later see lots of votes for 10d). Called to belayer to stand to side due to rotten rock at hueco. Some difficult clips down low from poor bolt placements. Band of cringe worthy rock above hueco which you clip off of, again calculating fall if rock breaks. Leaver biners at anchor (aluminum). Glad to lower and clean.
32
Mdjagg said on December 31st, 2018
Very interesting and rewarding onsight. I thought there could be one more bolt added still, but the climbing is easy enough between bolts 5 and 6 that I felt safe enough. Super fun route, challenging start with delicate balancey shallow pocket moves. Crux is the beginning, and then fight the light pump the rest of the way with two campsite sized hueco rests. If it didn't have the rests, this would be a 4 star all day.