Slow Jack

This route is located in the Southern Region at Solar Collector and Gold Coast

Should've Known Better


50a.
+0
0 votes

Pyrite 5.11c (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Dustin Stephens, Brad Dallefeld in 2012
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Right of the Slow Jack corner is this technical face climb with a bulging finish. Stem up the dihedral to the high first bolt, then pull an exciting mantle manuever onto the sloping ledge. From there it's all crimps, high-steps, & sinker pockets to the chains.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4 stars (18 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11c (16 votes)

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Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Apr 10th, 2013

Comments

1
Andrew said on December 3rd, 2012
I always thought this would be a good route. Nice job boys.
2
dustonian said on December 4th, 2012
It did turn out to be a nice one. Be prepared to crimp down.
3
pigsteak said on January 9th, 2013
granted I am a swiss roll eating fat fart, but I broke several holds on this first burn. If there ever was a route that could have used some secret glue, this is it;)...loved the movement, the breaky holds not so much....
4
dustonian said on January 9th, 2013
well... 2nd ascents in the Red, you know the drill. I kicked it around some but there's only so much beatin' one man can do.
5
dustonian said on January 9th, 2013
PS... swiss rolls? really?? ;)
6
pigsteak said on January 9th, 2013
if you only knew dustin...when I am stressed, it is quite hilarious to see what I will put in the pie hole.....mmmmmmm, pie.
7
dustonian said on January 9th, 2013
Well, thanks for cleanin it up, jellyroll!
8
pigsteak said on January 9th, 2013
anytime:)
9
pigsteak said on January 20th, 2013
I found this more intense and pumpy than rug muncher. as the holds clean up this thing will get more props.
10
climb2core said on January 20th, 2013
Extremely fun movement with mostly good holds now. There were just one key hold that made me hold your breath as I moved off it. If you move quickly it isn't so bad and 11c fits. Fumble around for a bit and it feels like 5.12. Nice line Dustin. Do get on this.
11
rjackson said on January 21st, 2013
I'm just curious... Who gave this 4 stars?
12
climb2core said on January 21st, 2013
Welp, I am one of them. I guess it just seemed so much better than Kipp's new "easy 11's" that I (or he) couldn't do the moves on ;) I thought the movement was great and it for a route that had only seen 3 prior ascents, that it was in pretty good condition. May lose another hold or two, but this route is deserving of at least 3.5 stars IMO. Seeing as that wasn't an option, I rounded up...
13
Cromper said on March 21st, 2013
Fun crimpin. Stick clipping the first bolt is a good idea.
14
dustonian said on March 22nd, 2013
haha yeah sorry about that, I swear it felt casual in warmer conditions... proud onsight btw!
15
DrRockso said on October 11th, 2016
Felt hard for 11c, perhaps some holds broke off or I suck at technical climbing, maybe a bit of both.