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Chocolate Factory Project 4

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory

 The "end" of the crag

105.
+0
0 votes

Swedish Fish 5.12a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Andrew Wheatley in 2012
Length: 110ft
Bolts: 14 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is currently and will most likely be the right most route and the warm up for the "Milk Chocolate" zone of the Chocolate Factory. 3 routes right of Bittersweet.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Private
Steepness:
bouldery (1) fists (1) beautiful (1) adventerous (1) pile (1) juggy (1) long (1) confusing (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.67 stars (45 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (47 votes)

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Comments

23 comments {add your own comments}
1
Andrew said on December 6th, 2012
I am not sure if a 60m rope will reach I only used a 70 on it, so tie a knot in the end of your rope. I hope everyone enjoys this as much as I did, as it throws about every kind of move at you.
2
whoneedsfeet said on December 6th, 2012
Moves like jagger?
3
Anonymous said on December 7th, 2012
I am a bit confused because it says that Andrew has the FA and I know for a fact he couldn't of managed to bolt a classic like this.
4
dustonian said on December 7th, 2012
I think Mike bolted this one...
5
Anonymous said on December 7th, 2012
good because if it was Andrew they would have to add it to the list of "the seven wonders of the world"
6
flashmaster said on December 7th, 2012
Got on it the other day. One of the holds in the first hueco broke but dosent really change the grade. Needs to clean up just a tiny bit still but still super awesome. Classic for sure!
7
Anonymous said on February 26th, 2013
Classic for sure. Great climb Andrew. Climbing on that flake is pretty wild... and the grade seems spot on to me. Loved it. - Rachel
8
Cromper said on March 10th, 2013
Stellar adventure climb! 5*
9
shadow.ayala said on March 18th, 2013
one of the best for the grade.
10
512OW said on April 22nd, 2013
I rarely give 5 stars, but did for this. Really great climbing... maybe the best of the grade, just not sure if the grade is 11d or 12a. Definitely one I'll do again. That damned Wheatley has a good eye!
11
kafish2 said on April 24th, 2013
An amazing adventure of a route with one of the best views I have gotten from the top of a route.
12
whoneedsfeet said on June 2nd, 2013
Yeah 11d my ass odub, every bit of a solid 12a I mean unless you can hand jam then it's 10c right?
13
Power2U said on March 3rd, 2014
Super fun adventure climb! Love how long it is! 12a is right on IMO.
14
Chuckdott said on May 10th, 2014
Best 12a at the Red? Certainly a contender!
15
climb2core said on May 17th, 2014
I got on this and was surprised at the manky holds considering the rave reviews. One jug before the long flake traverse was soaked and then the back of the upper flake was damp and slippery. Wind kicked up really hard and started blowing rain into the wall, so I bailed not wanting to end up with some sort of epic event. Hope to catch it on a better day.
16
Willy said on May 19th, 2014
It was raining and the holds got wet? Must be a pile
17
climb2core said on May 19th, 2014
Gawd your a gumby Will. ;) No, the holds were seeping manky.
18
pawilkes said on October 9th, 2014
A 60m will work on this route with 15-20 feet to spare, still a good idea to tie a stopper knot. I accidently kicked the big flake to check a swing and felt the whole thing vibrate, kinda spooky feeling. Great route with a few hard parts and great easier columbine between.
19
climb2core said on July 5th, 2015
Got on this again today. Super fun! Soaking wet going to the hueco, but the holds were friendly. Some day I'll catch this dry.
20
adangersmith said on March 28th, 2016
Best freaking 12a I have ever been on! The grade doesn't matter, the moves are just super cool and getting into the hueco rests are prime. This thing was adventurous and emotional to climb.
21
pumpout2004 said on April 11th, 2016
Cool rock scramble.
22
DrRockso said on August 2nd, 2016
60m will get you down. Climbed in a complete downpour and everything stayed dry except the anchor, which you basically clip from standing. One of my new favorite routes in the entire gorge, had so much fun climbing this. Thanks Wheatley's.
23
J-Ru said on September 5th, 2016
The block from which you clip the roof (2nd to last bolt) has a crack running through it and has that disconcerting thud when tapped. If it came off the belayer would be okay, but by standers should beware.