COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.
This is currently and will most likely be the right most route and the warm up for the "Milk Chocolate" zone of the Chocolate Factory. 3 routes right of Bittersweet.
I am not sure if a 60m rope will reach I only used a 70 on it, so tie a knot in the end of your rope.
I hope everyone enjoys this as much as I did, as it throws about every kind of move at you.
Got on it the other day. One of the holds in the first hueco broke but dosent really change the grade. Needs to clean up just a tiny bit still but still super awesome. Classic for sure!
I rarely give 5 stars, but did for this. Really great climbing... maybe the best of the grade, just not sure if the grade is 11d or 12a. Definitely one I'll do again. That damned Wheatley has a good eye!
I got on this and was surprised at the manky holds considering the rave reviews. One jug before the long flake traverse was soaked and then the back of the upper flake was damp and slippery. Wind kicked up really hard and started blowing rain into the wall, so I bailed not wanting to end up with some sort of epic event. Hope to catch it on a better day.
A 60m will work on this route with 15-20 feet to spare, still a good idea to tie a stopper knot. I accidently kicked the big flake to check a swing and felt the whole thing vibrate, kinda spooky feeling. Great route with a few hard parts and great easier columbine between.
Best freaking 12a I have ever been on! The grade doesn't matter, the moves are just super cool and getting into the hueco rests are prime. This thing was adventurous and emotional to climb.
60m will get you down. Climbed in a complete downpour and everything stayed dry except the anchor, which you basically clip from standing. One of my new favorite routes in the entire gorge, had so much fun climbing this. Thanks Wheatley's.
The block from which you clip the roof (2nd to last bolt) has a crack running through it and has that disconcerting thud when tapped. If it came off the belayer would be okay, but by standers should beware.
Route details are copyright Ray Ellington, John Bronaugh, and other Red River Gorge climbers. Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport. The information in this guidebook is subject to error and should supplement never replace common sense and caution, competent guidance and instruction, and actually being outside. One should be especially cautious on matters of route length, descent type, and number of bolts (especially since such things do change occasionally).
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Whoa.. you're green behind the ears!
How about taking a quick tour or getting up to speed with the Spray Wizard?
Thanks but don't I'll be alright. (all gumbies' famous last words)
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