COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.
Probably hard 13b, though I voted c just to keep it on the cusp. Not worth 5 stars only due to the fragile crimps in the middle, but the first half is 6 stars. Great continuously powerful climbing.
Excellent climb! A great test of power endurance. I voted 13c because I found it significantly more powerful than any b I have been on. If this is a b, then bohica is a soft 13a.
To be fair you just compared what is essentially a 30 foot 13b to a 120 foot 13b. Of course the short one feels like it's moves are tougher. Add to that buttercup is not soft in the grade and bohicans is generally considered soft, well you're comparing apples and oranges.
A tricky one to grade without a doubt. Just to keep the discussion going; I personally feel that soft 13c is appropriate. When i compare this line to routes of similar style such as Cats Demise or Dracula (both of which are notoriously difficult at 13b), I found the movement on B-hole cup to be more difficult. Plus what would the red be without a few routes at each grade that are…well…as soft as butter?
Maybe the route feels softer if you are taller, but this route feels nails harder than Dracula. I'm 5'2". And, the inability to clip the crux draw adds to the stiffness. I think solid, if not hard, for the c grade. A shorter person's 2 cents.
This wall is interesting with its steepness and orientation. Right now,(summer) it gets all day shade. In winter it gets all day sun. Fall and winter it goes in and out.
The hanger is spinning on the 5th bolt (crux bolt with the long perma). It would not tighten down with a wrench. It seems like a mild issue, but seeing as people whip all over this bolt and nearly skip the next bolt, this could be a good candidate for a glue in. Reported on BadBolts.
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Route details are copyright Ray Ellington, John Bronaugh, and other Red River Gorge climbers. Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport. The information in this guidebook is subject to error and should supplement never replace common sense and caution, competent guidance and instruction, and actually being outside. One should be especially cautious on matters of route length, descent type, and number of bolts (especially since such things do change occasionally).
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