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Butterface (open project)

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory


1 votes

Buttercup 5.13c (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Kevin Wilkinson in 2012
Length: 0ft
Bolts: 0 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Next route right of the project. Bouldery.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Private

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Quality Consensus

4.74 stars (19 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.13c (24 votes)

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Submitted by: Raiden
Date: Dec 10th, 2020

Submitted by: rockjunky45
Date: Oct 15th, 2013


512OW said on April 8th, 2013
Probably hard 13b, though I voted c just to keep it on the cusp. Not worth 5 stars only due to the fragile crimps in the middle, but the first half is 6 stars. Great continuously powerful climbing.
rockwarzz said on April 6th, 2015
Excellent climb! A great test of power endurance. I voted 13c because I found it significantly more powerful than any b I have been on. If this is a b, then bohica is a soft 13a.
kafish2 said on April 7th, 2015
To be fair you just compared what is essentially a 30 foot 13b to a 120 foot 13b. Of course the short one feels like it's moves are tougher. Add to that buttercup is not soft in the grade and bohicans is generally considered soft, well you're comparing apples and oranges.
Anonymous said on April 7th, 2015
A tricky one to grade without a doubt. Just to keep the discussion going; I personally feel that soft 13c is appropriate. When i compare this line to routes of similar style such as Cats Demise or Dracula (both of which are notoriously difficult at 13b), I found the movement on B-hole cup to be more difficult. Plus what would the red be without a few routes at each grade that are…well…as soft as butter?
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2017
Maybe the route feels softer if you are taller, but this route feels nails harder than Dracula. I'm 5'2". And, the inability to clip the crux draw adds to the stiffness. I think solid, if not hard, for the c grade. A shorter person's 2 cents.
KyleHT said on June 24th, 2019
Does anyone know sun/shade beta for this route? Thanks!
K.Fisher said on June 25th, 2019
This wall is interesting with its steepness and orientation. Right now,(summer) it gets all day shade. In winter it gets all day sun. Fall and winter it goes in and out.
Rx2Climb said on June 25th, 2019
Kyle? Why do you have so many screen names?
K.Fisher said on June 30th, 2019
One for each voice in my head, just chill.
Raiden said on November 2nd, 2020
The hanger is spinning on the 5th bolt (crux bolt with the long perma). It would not tighten down with a wrench. It seems like a mild issue, but seeing as people whip all over this bolt and nearly skip the next bolt, this could be a good candidate for a glue in. Reported on BadBolts.