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Spicer

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Bear's Den

Here Comes Palin


44.
+0
0 votes

Bromance 5.11d (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Andrew Wheatley in 2012
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Middle route on the Cut Tree Wall.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.67 stars (3 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11d (4 votes)

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Comments

1
[email protected] said on March 25th, 2013
This is a really good route! I suspect it is 5.11d with long reach and perfect beta. You will most likely find this route to be harder than the grade suggests.
2
Brentucky said on March 25th, 2013
I found this route much harder than the grade suggested. It's probably 11d to the jug beneath the last bolt. Then it gets piss hard. I barely got to the top, once. When lowering to work beta I couldn't repeat the move I did, and I couldn't come up with any alternatives. So far I'd say it's at least 12c and not as good as the equally sandbagged route to the right.
3
Andrew said on March 25th, 2013
Brent, you have called nearly every route at the Den 12c. Considering more people have confirmed the grade at 11d than people who called it 12a, your 12c opinion seems absurd. Maybe you should "look in the mirror, before you look out the window". All three of these routes originally had higher grades suggested by their FA'ers but subsequent accents right after the FA suggested lower grades, so we called them what they are now. Blame your friends. At least you are right about this route not being as good as the route to the right.
4
Brentucky said on March 25th, 2013
Yep I hear ya. Thanks for bolting these routes. Palin is going to be one of my favorites (I have lots of favorites I guess), and this one is pretty cool too and will get better as the top gets climbed on and cleaned up more. I'm not trying to come off as complaining by the way. I stand by my opinion though. No way in hell 5.11 max climbers will be getting to the tops of these routes without a stick clip.
5
anticlmber said on April 8th, 2013
"No way in hell 5.11 max climbers will be getting to the tops of these routes without a stick clip." well then, in my book that makes them not five eleven climbers. i think you mean aspiring 5.11 climbers. and yeah, not 12c. if routes feel harder it's cuz we suck and are weak. not the other way around.
6
lena_chita said on April 8th, 2013
I onsighted it to the jug beneath the last bolt, and thought it was hard up till then. And then I gave up. I couldn't figure out the short-person way to get to the top. However, i have said it about one or two of Andrew's routes before... It might very well be an 11d-- just not for me. The start was cool enough to make me want to come back and try it again someday. But yeah, I think that move-by-move Tuna Town, Heart-Shaped Box, Orange Juice and Stain are easier than the top of this route for me.
7
Anonymous said on April 13th, 2013
not one to give beta online in a public form where others may not want. but when i got on this, shortly after they went up, i made it to the top by yarding on the draw; grabbing a high, shit, crimp and clawing my way to the chains. revisted this last week and got shut down before that. was barely a five II climber than, but i got there. apparently not at that level yet. don't worry, we all suck at times. i still love you. xoxo jr
8
Power2U said on April 19th, 2013
Not sure what to grade this thing... hard boulder problem start followed by fun climbing to a difficult mossy last bolt run to the anchors! Interesting 11d to say they least!