Shadow Enhancement

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Bear's Den

Pooh and Piglet Too


17.
+0
0 votes

Barren Gold 5.12a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Andrew Wheatley in 2011
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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15 feet right of Shadow Enhancement. Technical climbing on perfect stone from start to finish.
Moves: unknown
Descent: unknown
Stays Dry:
Owner: Private
Steepness:
pockets (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

3.93 stars (15 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (17 votes)

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Submitted by: Andrew
Date: Apr 17th, 2013

Comments

1
Andrew said on December 13th, 2012
This is an easy version of golden touch, but it might actually be better. At least it doesn't have any drilled holds.
2
Brentucky said on December 13th, 2012
This climb completely rocks start to finish. It throws moves at you the whole way, and it's got a killer finish. It's one of my favorites. Also, I think it's harder than 11d, but I did climb it when it was hot so who knows.
3
dustonian said on December 13th, 2012
great route! agree that it's a step up from 11d
4
Anonymous said on December 13th, 2012
Word on the street is that there were some wilkonsonian maneuvers performed on this climb.
5
climb2core said on December 14th, 2012
So Andrew, any truth to Anon's comments?
6
Andrew said on December 14th, 2012
I think history on this site has proven that anything I touch will quickly be thrown into underserved controversy by my "wonderful" friends posting as themselves or Anon. Absolutely no holds were manufactured on this route. Just ask Anon... he was there.
7
climb2core said on December 14th, 2012
You know, once you start bolting cracks it is just a slippery slope from there ;) You ever hear Kipp tell his story about the guy that was there the day the developer drilled the perfect undercling on CB6? Thanks for the work.
8
Brentucky said on December 14th, 2012
If Andrew did any manufacturing he kinda forgot to include some decent holds on the top part. Those moves are rowdy! Andrew, this is one one of the best of the grade thanks a bunch!
9
whoneedsfeet said on February 27th, 2013
go go gadget ape index!
10
Anonymous said on February 28th, 2013
Go go gadget excuse! You did all the moves meng.
11
JR said on April 29th, 2013
Best on the wall. Does get wet after rain though...
12
pigsteak said on October 30th, 2013
wow...just wow...perhaps one of the best around
13
512OW said on December 15th, 2013
If you gave this 4 or 5 stars, you've been climbing too much choss. Good climb with interesting moves, but definitely not the same quality as other 4 or 5 star lines. Compared to a similarly graded climb like The Infidel, this doesn't even come close.
14
Anonymous said on December 16th, 2013
I love to be the one to tell you Kris... You are wrong. Great movement on good rock. Definitely deserves 4+ stars. xoxo. Ian
15
Anonymous said on December 16th, 2013
hahahaha....the star standards are plummeting around here. fine route, but hardly in the 4 star realm. i remember when the first wolverine book came out, we were flipping through and looking for the 5 star lines at given grades we noticed that manifest destiny at the time was a 5 star 12a and too many puppies was given 4 stars at the same grade. i understand it was probably done intentionally to get people to spread out and take some traffic away from forest service land, but seems like star inflation is almost as prevalent as grade inflation.
16
Anonymous said on December 16th, 2013
Big difference between a low 4 star route and an almost 5 star route. This climb is certainly more deserving than 3 stars.
17
ray said on December 17th, 2013
Yea that's exactly why I did that in the first edition. It was my master plan. Hilarious. Actually the star inflation in the first edition was mostly in Muir Valley. I squeezed Muir in at the last minute and had never even been there. All of the information was from the developers and as we all know developers usually tend to looooovvve their routes. If i left the stars as the developers give them to me then the entire guide would be 4 and 5 star routes. Take a look at the most recent edition and you'll notice that I've corrected the inflation issue.
18
ray said on December 17th, 2013
Oh yea, and just an FYI I put new lines in the guide as 3 stars by default now unless I'm really convinced to go either higher or lower. That's why this route has 3 stars. Jeez.
19
pigsteak said on December 17th, 2013
"corrected it"?..we dont need you to lord over our perfect insight...i mean, who's not to say that every route i touch is t indeed 4.5 -5 stars???
20
ray said on December 17th, 2013
Come on Steak, you mean your full page bio wasn't enough to pay tribute to your awesomeness!?
21
pigsteak said on December 17th, 2013
next edition I'd like to change the picture. as well, I am considering writing a children's book so would like you to reserve 5-6 pages for a sneak peek read...