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adventerous arete beautiful bouldery classic confusing contrived crimpy dihedral dynamic exposed fingers fists fun hands juggy long offwidth pile pinches pockets pumpy runout scary shady sharp short slopey steep stout sunny technical vertical

Psychopomp

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Bear's Den

 Deep in Dis Bear

4.
+0
0 votes

Clay City Exit 5.11a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Mike Wheatley in 2011
Length: 65ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Sport route before several trad lines. Easy and enjoyable steep climbing on big holds that will have you wondering how is this 5.11a, but towards the top as it becomes more vertical you will say: oh, that's why.
Moves: unknown
Descent: unknown
Stays Dry:
Owner: Private
Steepness:
fingers (1) juggy (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

3.58 stars (40 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11a (36 votes)

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Comments

13 comments {add your own comments}
1
Anonymous said on December 13th, 2012
This is a fun little route with cool holds and moves.
2
whoneedsfeet said on February 25th, 2013
Fun route top to bottom, will defiantly be around four stars after the last of the crispies fall off.
3
Anonymous said on February 25th, 2013
Top to bottom? Rappelling again?
4
whoneedsfeet said on February 25th, 2013
Yeah it's pretty futuristic. You downclimb the route while clipping into the quickdraws.
5
Cromper said on February 25th, 2013
Thought it was going to be the worst of the three but definitely the best.
6
likealadder said on March 11th, 2013
Super fun! Thought it was pretty mellow for an 11a.
7
Willy said on March 24th, 2013
Easy climbing on interesting holds to a crimpy crux right at the top. Feels easy if its not at your limit. The last ten feet is definitely not 5.10 climbing. Pretty clean now but still not as good as whipstocking or other **** 11a's imo though
8
lena_chita said on April 1st, 2013
I thought this was the best of the three routes on this section of the wall. Fun moves!
9
Power2U said on April 22nd, 2013
Good climb! 10d
10
steep4me said on April 22nd, 2013
Really fun!
11
JR said on April 29th, 2013
Nice work on this one Mike Wheatley. Best of this sector.
12
512OW said on December 15th, 2013
Great route Mike! Interesting holds and a cool little crux.
13
PatrickBecerra said on April 26th, 2016
Climbed this on 04/23/2016, a hornet was building a nest at the fifth bolt. I threw some rocks at it until it flew off and then knocked the little nest down. Ruined my onsight.