COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Sugar Daddy

This route is located in the Lower Gorge Region at Long Wall

The "end" of the crag

1 votes

Sunset 5.8+ (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Dan Beck, Nate Butcher in 2012
Length: 90ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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At Long Wall, walk far to the right. Go past Big Country. Go past The Snatch and Gladuator. Continue past Texas Tea and Block and Tackle. Go past Sugar Daddy, wherever it is. Continue along the wall through some rhodos. A ledge about ten feet high will appear to your left. Continue along this ledge through some more rhodos. Pass a few gulleys that head up to the ledge. When you can see a flake feature above the ledge and a gulley that will allow you to access the ledge, scramble up and then to the left. This route starts as a tight hands splitter and then quickly becomes a flake. Climb up the flake, reaching around it frequently for a ridiculous number of perfect, hidden handholds. Brave the insecure mantle to gain a large ledge and belay trees, as well as a perfect view of Auxier Ridge, Courthouse Rock, and the rest of Long Wall. If you timed it right, enjoy the sunset over Auxier Ridge. The FAs were probably some cool old people long ago, but possibly Dan Beck and Nate Butcher in 2012.
Moves: unknown
Descent: unknown
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS

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4 stars (2 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8+ (2 votes)

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Sorry, no pictures to be had. {want to add a photo?}


Anonymous said on December 18th, 2016
"The FAs were probably some cool old people long ago, but possibly Dan Beck and Nate Butcher in 2012." You are right about the first half. :-) But the first ascentionist had signed the MOU with the Forest Service regarding not publishing new route information without formal approval, so mum is the word. But the name granted to the route in the moment was Fixed Fist Fissure. :-o That was well before 2012 (~2003?).
Anonymous said on December 18th, 2016
Cool story, and so important in this time of global political upheaval