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Dr Synchro

This route is located in the Southern Region at What About Bob Wall

No Sleep Till Campton


20b.
+1
1 votes

Brass Gunkie 5.10 (Mixed) ***

First Ascent: Kirk Aengenheyster, Dustin Stephens in 2013
Length: 100ft
Bolts/Gear: 4/ (report bad bolts/anchors)

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High quality stemming and liebacking up the steep corner right of No Sleep Til Campton. Start on the first 4 bolts of that route, then traverse a bit right to get a couple small-to-medium pieces in a pocket and small crack. Continue up the orange face to the corner system (#5 or 6 useful but not mandatory) and follow that out to another rightward traverse on good holds, then a hand crack up to a nice ledge system with another bolt. Clip this and keep it together for the crux moves leading to the anchor. If you attempt to lower off from the anchor, a 60m rope may not make it all the way to the ground, although there is a good ledge about 40' up to belay your second from.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Bolted anchor
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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4 stars (1 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (1 votes)

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Submitted by: dustonian
Date: Mar 18th, 2013

Comments

1
dustonian said on March 12th, 2013
The dihedral on this route is excellent and must-do for 5.10 trad climbers. Take lots of runners and tie a knot in the tail of your rope if lowering off.
2
Wolf said on July 29th, 2013
Pretty good. I'd probably give it an R for that traverse. Watch out for the wasp.