Devil Made me Do It

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Bear's Den

Don't Do It


6.
+0
0 votes

Bearly Legal 5.8+ (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Scott Curran, Will Sweeney in 2013
Length: 60ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Follow a small trail, in between Deep in Dis Bear and Don't Do It, up to a large ledge. Scramble up to stance with a crack to your left. Peek around the corner at this beautiful left leaning crack and ramp system. Pull around the corner and layback and handjam to a hard move switching your feet to the face when the ramp runs out. Pull onto a large ledge and finish with a hard mantle and top out in the field above. Belay from telephone pole in field.
Moves: unknown
Descent: unknown
Stays Dry:
Owner: Private
Steepness:
adventerous (1) hands (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

3.57 stars (7 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8+ (6 votes)

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Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Apr 2nd, 2013

Comments

1
dustonian said on March 25th, 2013
Haha we belayed from the telephone pole on Dis Bear too! Probably get some anchors goin on at some point. This thing looks killer!
2
Willy said on March 25th, 2013
Really fun moves coming off the ramp around the corner! Won't take much traffic to get this thing clean. Rhodo bush at the start is an aesthetic nuisance but doesn't get in the way of the climb.
3
Cromper said on March 30th, 2013
Anchors up now, no more scary top out.
4
DrRockso said on March 30th, 2013
Me and Zach climbed this yesterday. Cromper gave me some chains to put on there, if you plan on climbing this bring some quicklinks, the chains are connected with biners right now. The route is sweet, belay from a hueco with a tree, climb up an easy mossy ramp to get to the money part of the route. Move from the ramp around an arete onto an exposed blank face with a diagonal crack to the anchors.
5
DrRockso said on March 30th, 2013
Watch out for some loose rock below and to the right of the belay. A bd#5 is nice to have but not necessary, lots of good placements for nuts and hexes along the ramp.
6
dustonian said on April 8th, 2013
Cool "position" route for sure, but unfortunately the climbing is kind of meh. Does the name refer to the lurky pair of men's underwear at the base?
7
Cromper said on March 3rd, 2015
Put some quicklinks on this today. Good beginner trad climb and fun position.
8
PatrickBecerra said on April 26th, 2016
Really easy 5.4 climbing up a ramp until you come around the bulge at the end and have to work up the crack/face, where it starts feeling like 5.8. Fun climb.