In Red We Trust

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Bear's Den

Pinkalicious


10.
+0
0 votes

Wet Willy 5.10a (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Will Sweeney, Tyler Schoeppner in 2013
Length: 55ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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The intimidating crack on the right side of the cave. Jam or lieback your way up a flake to the base of a severely overhanging chimney with a perfect hand crack in the back. Casually slide your way up to where the chimney ends and procrastinate before underclinging your way out the horizontal roof. Hand and head jam your way into the final chimney slot, then reach down and clip the anchors on In Red We Trust. The last few feet are often wet (not making the climbing any more difficult, but like getting a wet willy, it feels a little gross but you're guaranteed to smile).
Moves: unknown
Descent: unknown
Stays Dry:
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.13 stars (8 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10a (5 votes)

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Comments

1
Andrew said on April 15th, 2013
I hate to tell you this, but unless you climbed this route more than a year ago, then you are not the first. Sorry.
2
Willy said on April 15th, 2013
This climb is super fun! Similar to Doppler Effect but includes a bit of easy wide climbing. This along with Bearly Legal makes the Den a worthy place to haul up a rack for. Nothing bigger than a #2 is needed but there is nice pod for a #4
3
Willy said on April 15th, 2013
No worries its still an awesome climb. I talked to a few people and as far as they knew it had not been climbed. Do you know who the real FA team was?
4
Willy said on April 22nd, 2013
Spoke with Aaron today. He had climbed this route previously but said he did not go all the way into the final chimney slot to clip the chains on In Red we Trust. Maybe we could have a variation called "Dry Aaron" that ends before the waterfall??
5
PatrickBecerra said on April 26th, 2016
The chimney starts with some finger crack before you get to the hands. If you're like me, and you suck, save yourself the hassle of bailing off the route. Looked fun after that part tho.