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Gandee Candy

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Bear's Den

Cindy Groms


22.
+0
0 votes

Broke Back Finger 5.12d (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Jason Forrester, Andrew Wheatley in 2014
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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50 feet right of Gandee Candy and around a gentle corner. This and the next three climbs are on a ledge that overlooks the amphitheater of the Steep Wall. A tough bouldery line.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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3.5 stars (2 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12d (2 votes)

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Submitted by: Andrew
Date: May 6th, 2013

Submitted by: Andrew
Date: May 6th, 2013

Comments

1
Andrew said on May 6th, 2013
My injury is your gain. This is a really good rock climb on steep high quality rock. Small fingers will help. FA can change the name.
2
Cromper said on May 7th, 2013
REALLY good climbin!
3
dustonian said on May 7th, 2013
how could anyone possibly want to change a name like this??
4
tbwilsonky said on May 7th, 2013
which fingers do i need healthy to send this?
5
Andrew said on May 7th, 2013
I suggest pointer. Pinky is second choice. Crux requires three consecutive fingers to ensure success.
6
dustonian said on May 7th, 2013
I need to go climb it or else put up "Fingerbanger" next door
7
whoneedsfeet said on May 7th, 2013
Found the reason Andrew hurt his finger. Going "all in" on his wife's booty hole.
8
dustonian said on May 7th, 2013
Sounds like you know his moves a little too well, J-ballz...
9
Willy said on May 8th, 2013
In his dreams maybe
10
pigsteak said on October 28th, 2013
andrew, it appears there are three routes right here left of gandee candy...r these yours? if not, which one is broke finger?
11
Andrew said on October 28th, 2013
The next route right of Candy.
12
andy_c said on December 15th, 2013
Is anyone working on this?
13
pigsteak said on December 16th, 2013
2-3 weeks ago some fellas were on it....
14
allen said on December 18th, 2013
I worked on it when I was in town for tgiving, put in maybe 8 attempts. Really enjoyed it! felt close (1 hang) but needed a rest day and didn't have one. Intro climbing to a longish 12 move boulder between a huge mail slot and an enormous rest jug. Steep long pulls between incuts gets the anchors. I'd say 5.11 to v8 to 5.11. Totally worth doing and wish I could've finished it up!
15
Andrew said on December 18th, 2013
This is an accurate description. I am glad you got a chance to work on it and I hope someone can finish it up. Good luck
16
andy_c said on December 19th, 2013
Cool- thanks for the description, Allen.. and thanks for the development, Andrew.
17
Anonymous said on January 7th, 2014
Jason Forrester did this thing 2nd go the other day! Nice work man!!!
18
heavyc said on March 27th, 2014
5.11 to v8 to 5.11 equals 5.12d???