Aviary

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at The Zoo

Speedy Gonzales


16.
+0
0 votes

Sidewinder 5.12b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Blake Bowling, Jeff Neal in 2012
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This and the following routes are located by walking to the right when the trail meets the cliff instead of walking through or around the arch first. This is the first route encountered and shares a start with the next two routes. Begin on a high ledge with a boulder problem to reach the pumpy arete.
Moves: Bouldery
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.5 stars (14 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12b (12 votes)

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Comments

1
Jeff said on May 20th, 2013
Go straight in to low bolt at ledge so you can lean around and stick clip high first bolt.
2
pigsteak said on May 21st, 2013
this first bolt should not be included in any bolt count on these first three routes, and should not be left clipped when climbing to avoid rope drag.
3
Jeff said on May 26th, 2013
And the ladder is not attached to the wall. Ask local.
4
[email protected] said on May 28th, 2013
Powerful and unique climbing. Short people will dislike, but what a great climb.
5
pumpout2004 said on May 28th, 2013
Extremely good climbing. Even though the slopey dishes at the start look amazing, you sadly don't use them except for feet. I got sucked out there for a few tries because I really wanted that to be the beta...
6
pigsteak said on May 28th, 2013
pumpout, we cleaned those with the same thing in mind;)
7
Cromper said on May 29th, 2013
Real fun boulder problem at the start!
8
512OW said on September 4th, 2013
It's a shame that the funky start and the no hands in the middle are there, because this would be a 6 star route if they weren't. Absolutely cool sequences to get it started.
9
dustonian said on October 3rd, 2013
Great route. Beware the crossloading on your biner on the first bolt as you move left to the second...sketchy
10
Brentucky said on October 14th, 2013
Sorry folks, but I ripped off the big crimp ledge in the picture leaving the ugly scar. The move will now be a few inches longer, and it is made while grabbing a super sandy (but otherwise good) edge. It’s the only bad part of some otherwise great routes.
11
dustonian said on October 14th, 2013
Master overgripping holdbreaker Brentucky. Figured that thing was gonna break. So it still goes kinda?
12
Power2U said on April 28th, 2014
Stellar fun line!