Yeah, I got on it the day Craig sent. I was pretty sick that day but it felt harder than Mosaic to me. Fun and sustained through the middle though for sure.
Super cool sequence from the first bolt to the third, a crummy knee bar, and last bouldery sequence between pinches and undercling pockets..
I guess the grade was a private joke? Solid 12c, harder then all the stout 12b over in military wall, as hard as Cell Block Six in my opinion, Scott, Steve, and me thinks 12c with the knee bar makes sense.
I don't agree on the 12c grade, trying to force it straight up when everyone else is going to bail out at the 3rd bolt to the right and skip your slopers, 12a is the best I'd give it- cool moves thou
The traverse at the 3rd bolt felt like the hardest moves of the route. Apparently there was a good crimp out right that broke recently (more recently than all these 12c comments)
I don't remember any good crimp when I sent this route. The traverse on slopers was the hardest section for sure. Where do you bail out right?? The movement rocks regardless of the grade. Seriously though...12c.
well Mr. Anon- if you look at the line, the flow goes 2 1/2 feet to right of the bolt line at the 3rd- you can't force the slopers, but not a bad slip in job, if you went 4' either way you would be on the other lines so it is what it is
I can "see" what you are saying about this being a bit contrived. But honestly, when you climb it. It is a non-issue. This route will clean up and be of high quality.
Middle of the road 12b, I think. Felt 12cish until I convinced myself that going out right was just fine, even though going straight up avoids the jugs on the neighboring route. I was a little distressed until I climbed the next section, then I forgot all about the weird traverse. 1 absolutely stellar bolt of climbing.
Damn, when the strong folks are all upgrading the 12a at Choco you know it is gonna be nasty, and yeah, 12c seems about right. As for the traverse, well, I didn't really notice that there is much to note. There are multiple options, and at worst case I think you climb like 2 feet right of the bolt; that's just rock climbing. Super cool route though!
I think this is on par with Gobstopper and a big harder or maybe about on par with "Stunning the Hog." Regardless, an awesome route with some really awesome slopers at the crux. I tried going "out right" but thought the sloper sequence was easier. Still fell going to the chains! (twice)
Fantastic route! 12c for sure (compare with Naked 12a and Grumpalump 11d). I tested moving right at 3rd bolt on my first go, but I found it goes fine straight up--and sent 2nd go.
well account that a woman's idea for a grade is 79 cents on the dollar and we can agree that this 12a. It's not mindless pulling it requires tension and power, and is completely 12a. huge rests between two v3/4 cruxes. #believewomen #soft grades
So the 30 or so votes for 12c... probably just other women that don't have a clue? Except the spray list says different. 99% dudes that all climb at least 5.13. Anon, it's understandable. You clearly have some mommy issues to deal with.
No shit, after he warmed up and hit the fence post on Grumpalump, that same buddy pitched at the 3rd and hit the the fence post on Fatman. This is what happens retardation comes face to face with retardation.
It was my buddy who pitched, not me. He's worked some 12s in the gym as have I. I'm belay certified, I just haven't practiced catching people over giant posts sticking out of the ground. He only got some scrapes and some big bruises around his kidneys. I think he'll be fine. I caught him well enough that he trusted me on his proj. Fuck you.
The fence at the Base of these climbs is dangerous to climbers and also makes cleaning and belaying difficult. The fence needs to be lowered and made into a bench or something.
*Please type the spam-prevention code you see in the image above into the box below before submitting your comments.
Spray
Attempts
1 Go
2 Goes
3 Goes
4 Goes
5 Goes
6 Goes
7 Goes
8 Goes
9 Goes
10 Goes
11+ Goes
Unknown Goes
Date Sent
-
Route details are copyright Ray Ellington, John Bronaugh, and other Red River Gorge climbers. Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport. The information in this guidebook is subject to error and should supplement never replace common sense and caution, competent guidance and instruction, and actually being outside. One should be especially cautious on matters of route length, descent type, and number of bolts (especially since such things do change occasionally).
Comments