Storm Gutter

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory

Dew Point


86.
+0
0 votes

Breakin the Law 5.10a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Will Sweeney, Quinn Hill in 2013
Length: 50ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Pull a roof at the first bolt then swim your way up the overhanging face using just the right amount of jugs and sinker pockets.
Moves: Jugs
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Private
Steepness:
juggy (1) pockets (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

3.11 stars (37 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (47 votes)

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Submitted by: Willy
Date: Jun 17th, 2013

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Jun 17th, 2013

Comments

1
dustonian said on June 18th, 2013
Thumbs up Willy! Really cool pockets. Stick clip the 2nd from the ledge if you are not solid at the grade.
2
whoneedsfeet said on June 18th, 2013
Willy done good? Hell has frozen over.
3
dustonian said on June 20th, 2013
10a? Now that's just silly.
4
Willy said on June 20th, 2013
When i originally thought 10c I didnt consider the other 10's near it. It felt easier than Robotic Thumb and definitely easier than Oompa. The roof pull isn't really any harder than the one on EGBG so I think 10a is reasonable.
5
dustonian said on June 20th, 2013
Harder than Robotic but easier than Loompa. Also the first bolt doesn't protect the roof pull very well. Top half is really good.
6
Willy said on June 20th, 2013
I agree. What would you recommend to fix that? Maybe move the first up a bit and remove the second?
7
dustonian said on June 20th, 2013
Move the first up & left a bit and call it good
8
Anonymous said on August 29th, 2013
As someone who admittedly really really sucks and usually climbs 9-11s I felt like this was closer to 11a then 9. I couldn't figure out the roof pull. Personally I would put it harder than robotic thumb, brief history, ghost in the machine. Sharp but fun / satisfyingly deep pockets up top.
9
dustonian said on September 25th, 2013
"satisfyingly deep"...?
10
Willy said on October 12th, 2013
11
Willy said on October 28th, 2013
Moved the first bolt up and left a bit a few weeks ago and put some steal biners on the chains. Also agree its a bit too hard to be 10a after climbing it again
12
JR said on April 8th, 2014
First off. I loved this route. Great movement. The start, however, is so undignified. Total thrutch fest to start a rad route. Kind of a shame you couldn't have brought it in from the left or the right. Just splitting hairs though. Nice work.
13
climb2core said on July 5th, 2015
Very good route with pockets in all th right places. Thanks Will
14
usmcmars said on November 25th, 2015
Pulling the roof sucked, not fun at all. The rest of the route was cool. I thought probably 10b. Clipping the second bolt is a good idea.
15
Chiyram said on May 15th, 2016
Pretty good route with awesome pockets. Sharp though, and prepare to clip every bolt with your left hand.
16
DrRockso said on August 2nd, 2016
Way harder than 5.10a, Willy is a sandbagging POS! Fun route, needs more traffic to clean up.
17
lena_chita said on March 27th, 2017
Cool route, after the start. The roof pull is really hard if you can't reach higher jugs from the ledge.
18
Anonymous said on March 27th, 2017
could you PLEASE post a few more worthless mewling comments about the many injustices of being short?? PLEASE?!!!
19
Anonymous said on March 27th, 2017
Couldnt agree more, its the only thing Lena knows how to comment "harder if your short". You also weigh less than a 6' tall guy yet they don't CONSTANTLY post "harder if you weigh more". Shut up already lena, no one cares that you're short.
20
lena_chita said on March 27th, 2017
I think you guys need to follow me a little more closely. There are at least 4 other route comments that you haven't critiqued yet.
21
Anonymous said on March 28th, 2017
No that's incorrect Lena, all you ever say is "harder if your short".
22
Anonymous said on March 28th, 2017
lena you do realize the other people complaining are fucking short too. Maybe invest in a step ladder or just deal with being a hobbit.
23
climbhigh said on March 28th, 2017
At 6'1 225 of pure chocolate and rocking from summer till Santa comes down the chimney.....I find grown men taking the time to complain about grown women complaining, is as fucktarded as me taking the time to complain about grown men complaing about grown women that are complaing. see what you made me do, assholes.
24
Chiyram said on March 29th, 2017
Climbhigh wins the the comment thread on this route. Everyone can go home now.
25
Mdjagg said on December 31st, 2018
Amazing route. Pretty easy if you are a confident climber. So many great pockets it's hard to believe they exist all on the same route. Thanks to the developers for this gem!
26
Anonymous said on April 9th, 2019
Is this guy for real about the short comments? I mean at first I was thinking this must be an inside joke but now I'm not so sure...