The Peyote Pup

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at The Zoo

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Sons of Perdition 5.12a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Kipp Trummel in 2013
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 12 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This and the following routes are known as the Bird Cage Sector of The Zoo. From the previous set of lines continue right until reaching a large section of overhanging rock with upside down holds. This is the first line on this section of cliff and begins with easy climbing for 20 feet to reach a high first bolt. Climb the slightly overhanging face passing a couple of tough bouldery sections one of which contains a single natural perfectly placed make-or-break pocket. Grab a sit-down rest then tackle a roof with large holds that disappear shortly over the lip. The reward for making it this far is an enjoyable Red-Riveresque romp on large holds up a more overhanging and pumpy section of the wall.
Moves: Bouldery
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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3.55 stars (11 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12b (16 votes)

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Submitted by: brhe224
Date: Jul 14th, 2013

Comments

1
Cromper said on June 2nd, 2013
Killer line! Bring a brush to help this one along.
2
pigsteak said on June 2nd, 2013
a 24 inch draw on bolt three is mandatory.
3
csswim41 said on July 14th, 2013
This thing is definitely stout for 12a. Lots of stuff is still sandy, but this thing is already awesome before cleaning up totally. Still a decent amount of breakage on a lot of smaller feet. Cool line - definitely one to come back for!
4
pigsteak said on July 14th, 2013
also, after you clip the long chain over the high roof, reach back under the roof and unclip that draw....removes the rope drag as you get higher....
5
512OW said on September 4th, 2013
Really great. Have your draw hanging game on with a few preloaded long ones. Trad climbing without the trad.
6
dustonian said on October 7th, 2013
plan on backcleaning as many draws as you can to prevent rope drag
7
2tall said on October 7th, 2013
Looked so cool from the ground, but climbed like doodoo... or maybe I climbed like doodoo. My experience was doodoo regardless.
8
craig.smith1 said on August 28th, 2014
Bring a brush for reals. Pretty adventurous for a sport climb. Thoughtfully bolted. Back cleaning is the way to go.
9
krampus said on May 11th, 2015
5 star movement on 2.5 star rock. Super fun with a few tough cruxes, worth getting on for sure.
10
Anonymous said on May 24th, 2015
This was alot of fun. A large variation of climbing,long and pumpy. I only clipped the second bolt of each of the two mantles at the bottom and hung a really long one in the big middle hole and the rope drag was not a problem. Hardest 12a I can think of.