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Ball and Chain

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Tectonic Wall and Johnny's Wall

Gettin' Lucky In Kentucky

0 votes

Dime a Dozen 5.11a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Dustin Stephens, Rick Weber in 2013
Length: 45ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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The further right route on this section of wall. Balancey, with a hard section in the middle that will feel harder than 11a for the shorties.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
adventerous (1)
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Quality Consensus

3.04 stars (26 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11b (27 votes)

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Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Jan 14th, 2016


Chiyram said on August 26th, 2013
Cool route. Needs some major cleaning on ledges, lots of dirt. I tried cleaning some off and brushed a few holds. Fun and interesting route. Gonna feel tougher for anyone under 5'10". Suck it up and do it anyway though.
dustonian said on August 26th, 2013
cool thanks for the cleaning. this one was kind of a collaborative effort by a few different people and it never quite got the thorough brush down it needs unfort. it has very good rock and cool shapes underneath the lichen though!
pawilkes said on October 10th, 2013
should be pretty fun once it cleans up. a bit tough between 3 and 4 and then it gets fun with some nice hand jams in the flake/crack above
heavyc said on February 26th, 2014
not pretty looking route but movement and features are great, nice job!
Anonymous said on May 12th, 2015
Just climbed this May 2015. Great climb and fun movements. The start was a lot a blast using a heel hook and the middle section does feel strong for a 5.11a. Some nice hand jamming near the finale too! What's not to like?
Anonymous said on April 16th, 2017
Interesting moves! I'd give it 3 stars even with the dirty ledge.
SteinBot said on May 16th, 2019
Nice climb. Got to the top and was greeted by a raccoon coming out of his den on the ledge just left of the anchors. He told me good job.