Ball and Chain

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Tectonic Wall and Johnny's Wall

Gettin' Lucky In Kentucky


1e.
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Dime a Dozen 5.11a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Dustin Stephens, Rick Weber in 2013
Length: 45ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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The further right route on this section of wall. Balancey, with a hard section in the middle that will feel harder than 11a for the shorties.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:
adventerous (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

3.05 stars (22 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11b (23 votes)

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Comments

1
Chiyram said on August 26th, 2013
Cool route. Needs some major cleaning on ledges, lots of dirt. I tried cleaning some off and brushed a few holds. Fun and interesting route. Gonna feel tougher for anyone under 5'10". Suck it up and do it anyway though.
2
dustonian said on August 26th, 2013
cool thanks for the cleaning. this one was kind of a collaborative effort by a few different people and it never quite got the thorough brush down it needs unfort. it has very good rock and cool shapes underneath the lichen though!
3
pawilkes said on October 10th, 2013
should be pretty fun once it cleans up. a bit tough between 3 and 4 and then it gets fun with some nice hand jams in the flake/crack above
4
heavyc said on February 26th, 2014
not pretty looking route but movement and features are great, nice job!
5
Anonymous said on May 12th, 2015
Just climbed this May 2015. Great climb and fun movements. The start was a lot a blast using a heel hook and the middle section does feel strong for a 5.11a. Some nice hand jamming near the finale too! What's not to like?
6
Anonymous said on April 16th, 2017
Interesting moves! I'd give it 3 stars even with the dirty ledge.
7
SteinBot said on May 16th, 2019
Nice climb. Got to the top and was greeted by a raccoon coming out of his den on the ledge just left of the anchors. He told me good job.