Shake Down

This route is located in the Miller Fork at Cooper's Cove

Diesel Therapy


4.
+0
0 votes

Where the Sidewalk Ends 5.10d (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Kipp Trummel, Ray Ellington in 2013
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Nice flowing moves with a roof crux near the top. May feel a bit spicy for some but hang in there, the holds are big. After the roof trend left because there's some perma-dirt and possibly damp rock up there.
Moves: Pumpy
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light Rain
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.13 stars (32 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10d (34 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Sep 15th, 2013

Comments

1
climb2core said on September 8th, 2013
I think this is a tad sand bagged at 10b. Not hard to get flash pumped if this is your warm up.
2
pigsteak said on September 9th, 2013
the last bolt to the chains will stay wet after a rain....
3
Spikeddem said on October 1st, 2013
This used to be 10b????
4
Spikeddem said on October 1st, 2013
There's a huge rock that may or may not trundle on down one day after enough use. It'll probably kill the belayer if they're not off to the left. It's above the fourth (I think) bolt. There's a 2 mm-wide crack that runs for about a foot and a half to the right through it. The crack flexes when the left end of the block is used. Just a heads up.
5
pigsteak said on October 1st, 2013
spike, could you have pulled it off wihtout hurting anyone? or mark it with an "x"?
6
Spikeddem said on October 2nd, 2013
I gave it some good kicks in climbing boots, but I think I'd have to be in regular shoes. Even then I don't know if it'd go. I think it's more of just something to keep an eye on. It's worth an X, I didn't have block chalk to mark it.
7
lena_chita said on October 16th, 2013
Didn't notice bad rock around the 4th bolt, but broke off a big (non-chalked) chunk of a handhold in the scooped-out section right below the roof. Everything but the tick-marked holds is really crumbly in that area. I am guessing that the scoop-out section under the roof will look much more blank very soon.
8
lena_chita said on October 16th, 2013
The moves from scoop to the roof are really memorable though. Not just left hand/right hand jughaul. Definitely something you would remember.
9
dustonian said on December 5th, 2013
Nice warm up
10
Jeff said on December 20th, 2013
Totalled enjoyable. Can be slightly damp at the top if you see water running off to the right, but does't really affect the last few moves of the climb much.
11
krampus said on March 21st, 2014
Even with the damp holds at the top, I thought this was a great rout with good rock quality
12
usmcmars said on February 18th, 2017
This one climbs nice. Loved it. Felt easier than its sandbagged little brother - the 10c to the left.
13
Catawaba said on February 20th, 2017
A little more exciting clipping the anchors than I thought necessary. Overall a great climb
14
Daeris said on February 20th, 2017
Catawaba, I think I just climbed the route you're talking about. Clipping those anchors from the mini-hueco up top was probably one of the most sketch anchors I've had to clip. I'm honestly not sure if it was this route though. I think it may have been in between Where the Sidewalk Ends, and Shake Down. Are you certain it was this route?
15
Catawaba said on February 20th, 2017
I'm pretty sure it was this route based on the photos in the guidebook the starts seemed to match up. I agree clipping the anchors was pretty sketch, not a big fan