Sundial

This route is located in the Miller Fork at Serenity Point

Dancing Queen


11.
+0
0 votes

Dirty Habit 5.10d (Sport) **

First Ascent: Dustin Stephens, Andrew Gearing in 2013
Length: 85ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This line begins just right of the blunt arete near the detached pillar. Due to the runoff expect a layer of dirt but don't let it chase you off! The holds are decent and the movement is great so it can still be a fun ride for a select few.
Moves: Balancy
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.17 stars (23 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10d (26 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Mar 16th, 2015

Comments

1
dustonian said on September 13th, 2013
This will be really good when it cleans up. Bring a brush to help it along if you're in the mood.
2
Jeff said on December 28th, 2013
When this cleans up, I can't help but think it will be much harder. There's a lot of stuff down low in the thinner section that is still breaking off.
3
dustonian said on December 28th, 2013
Yeah I'll brush it next time I'm out there. Thanks for pitching in on the cleanup Jefe! Agree that it's probably about as hard as Sundial.
4
dustonian said on December 28th, 2013
BTW this is the left route, starting near a small boulder and going up and around a blunt arĂȘte
5
ray said on January 4th, 2014
This route is dirty but I didn't think it was chossy. Mostly solid edges and great movement. The light layer of runoff dirt didn't make it a bad route in my opinion.
6
dustonian said on January 4th, 2014
Yeah, long with fun moves and some cool solid features. I think it will end up being a good 10+/11-. With the lack of trees up top it just made sense to bolt it while the fixed line for Sundial was still hanging in the right spot.
7
dustonian said on January 4th, 2014
BTW the name refers to what my wife thinks of route development as a hobby, not this line in particular...
8
pigsteak said on January 5th, 2014
I loved this route..thx ustin.
9
dustonian said on January 8th, 2014
I don't think this route get much runoff, I just never got around to cleaning it. It is way better than 1 star.
10
Anonymous said on March 9th, 2014
thanx to Symon and Joel for giving this thing a brushdown yesterday
11
krampus said on March 9th, 2014
super fun movement, its a bit sandy now but hopefully will get better with time
12
Annea said on October 28th, 2014
This is a great route with a couple good cruxes. Thanks Dustin!
13
craig.smith1 said on May 11th, 2015
I thought this was the coolest route at this cliff, and there are several good ones. Really techie for the grade. Probably not 10d.
14
Chiyram said on October 10th, 2016
This would be getting 5 stars in my book if it would clean up. Crimped some muddy holds, but the moves on this thing are awesome.