Melanoma

This route is located in the Miller Fork at Serenity Point

Dirty Habit


10.
+0
0 votes

Sundial 5.11a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Dustin Stephens, Andrew Gearing in 2013
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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A magnificent face climb. Scramble to the top of the pillar with stemming and face holds to begin. Step out onto the face when ready for high quality and technical face climbing. The final section climbs the crack to the right of the last bolt. Clipping is possible with a good side-pull in the crack.
Moves: Balancy
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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4 stars (42 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11a (29 votes)

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Comments

1
Brentucky said on October 21st, 2013
Kinda spicey for us sporty folks to hang the last bolt way out left of the crack. Once a few more holds break and this gets just a little bit of traffic it is going to become a very good route.
2
dustonian said on October 21st, 2013
No send, Pusstucky??
3
ray said on October 22nd, 2013
One of the best vert lines i've done in a while. Tried going up the face because the crack was so far right and broke what seemed to be the only hold to gain the face. Second time went up the crack way right and it couldn't be a better finish for this amazing line. I can't believe Dustin bolted a crack though! Gasp!
4
dustonian said on October 22nd, 2013
Haha I was hoping the direct finish would be easier. Should we chop it and leave a rack of nuts on the next to last bolt?
5
Jeff said on December 20th, 2013
Killer route Dustin!
6
craig.smith1 said on April 2nd, 2015
Excellent route.
7
shadow.ayala said on April 4th, 2015
long and classic
8
J-Ru said on October 13th, 2015
The finish up the crack is great! I did not think hanging the draw was tough -- a decent reach probably helps. Fun vert-climbing after the stemming with some interesting and committing problems.
9
Rx2Climb said on October 21st, 2015
I really loved this route. This is nitpicking, but the last bolt felt a bit out of place. Clipping this bolt from a hard undercling, then moving back down and right into the crack was the crux for me. One of my partners wasn't tall enough to hang the draw on the bolt and had to do a slight traverse from above in the crack to clip. All in all it is an amazing route and I will definitely be getting back on it in the near future.
10
J-Ru said on October 22nd, 2015
Hang the draw from the crack, rather than from the undercling.
11
JR said on October 22nd, 2015
good news: Sundial doesn't have a bolted crack. bad news: You can't hang the draw unless you are 5 and a half feet tall...... Take a few finger pieces shorties! It's worth it. Probably the best route at this wall.
12
Episketch said on November 7th, 2016
Amazing route! I'm 5'5" and I had no problem clipping from a sidepull in the crack.
13
Tunica Intima said on October 29th, 2017
Really nice face climb. Very fun.
14
amarius said on March 19th, 2018
Top out for added fun.