COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Melanoma

This route is located in the Miller Fork at Serenity Point

Dirty Habit


10.
+0
0 votes

Sundial 5.11a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Dustin Stephens, Andrew Gearing in 2013
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

Click for more images
A magnificent face climb. Scramble to the top of the pillar with stemming and face holds to begin. Step out onto the face when ready for high quality and technical face climbing. The final section climbs the crack to the right of the last bolt. Clipping is possible with a good side-pull in the crack.
Moves: Balancy
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus
 

4.04 stars (48 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11a (35 votes)

You must login to save your input!
stars
grade
attempts
+
-
spray
+ add
project
+ add

Charts

Photos


Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Apr 14th, 2015

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Apr 14th, 2015

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Apr 14th, 2015

Submitted by: dustonian
Date: Mar 11th, 2014

Comments

1
Brentucky said on October 21st, 2013
Kinda spicey for us sporty folks to hang the last bolt way out left of the crack. Once a few more holds break and this gets just a little bit of traffic it is going to become a very good route.
2
dustonian said on October 21st, 2013
No send, Pusstucky??
3
ray said on October 22nd, 2013
One of the best vert lines i've done in a while. Tried going up the face because the crack was so far right and broke what seemed to be the only hold to gain the face. Second time went up the crack way right and it couldn't be a better finish for this amazing line. I can't believe Dustin bolted a crack though! Gasp!
4
dustonian said on October 22nd, 2013
Haha I was hoping the direct finish would be easier. Should we chop it and leave a rack of nuts on the next to last bolt?
5
Jeff said on December 20th, 2013
Killer route Dustin!
6
craig.smith1 said on April 2nd, 2015
Excellent route.
7
shadow.ayala said on April 4th, 2015
long and classic
8
J-Ru said on October 13th, 2015
The finish up the crack is great! I did not think hanging the draw was tough -- a decent reach probably helps. Fun vert-climbing after the stemming with some interesting and committing problems.
9
Rx2Climb said on October 21st, 2015
I really loved this route. This is nitpicking, but the last bolt felt a bit out of place. Clipping this bolt from a hard undercling, then moving back down and right into the crack was the crux for me. One of my partners wasn't tall enough to hang the draw on the bolt and had to do a slight traverse from above in the crack to clip. All in all it is an amazing route and I will definitely be getting back on it in the near future.
10
J-Ru said on October 22nd, 2015
Hang the draw from the crack, rather than from the undercling.
11
JR said on October 22nd, 2015
good news: Sundial doesn't have a bolted crack. bad news: You can't hang the draw unless you are 5 and a half feet tall...... Take a few finger pieces shorties! It's worth it. Probably the best route at this wall.
12
Episketch said on November 7th, 2016
Amazing route! I'm 5'5" and I had no problem clipping from a sidepull in the crack.
13
Tunica Intima said on October 29th, 2017
Really nice face climb. Very fun.
14
amarius said on March 19th, 2018
Top out for added fun.
15
Anonymous said on October 9th, 2019
Yesterday the pillar broke off and fell down the hill. No one was hurt but the climb will be a bit different without it.
16
Anonymous said on October 22nd, 2019
With the crash of the pillar, really curious if/how the grade changes
17
Anonymous said on October 22nd, 2019
RIP, Pillar. I enjoyed standing on you.
18
AidClimber said on October 22nd, 2019
Huge loss to the community RIP
19
Anonymous said on October 23rd, 2019
Was someone climbing the route when the pillar detached?!
20
Anonymous said on October 23rd, 2019
I always felt that a scale at the base of the route would likely prevent such an event from occurring
21
Anonymous said on October 25th, 2019
Yes, someone was climbing when it happened. When you see the wreckage at the belay, it seems pretty miraculous that nobody got flattened. Three of us climbed it this weekend. Grade still felt fair at 5.11a, though the lower felt maybe a touch harder than the rest of the climb. Hanging that last draw is still the crux if you're short!
22
KyleHT said on March 23rd, 2020
One of the best tech faces of this grade I've ever climbed...incredible movement. Felt on the stout end of 11a for sure!