Wizard's Sleeve

This route is located in the Southern Region at Area 6 - CLOSED

Evil


5.
+0
0 votes

High Heaven 5.12a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Kipp Trummel in 2011
Length: 65ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Left of Edge of the Island is this stellar climb which takes on a granite like face that will leave you pumped enough to make your belayer cringe as you attempt to drag yourself over the crux bulge using some trickery or pure fear driven brute strength.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.75 stars (4 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12b (7 votes)

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Comments

1
climb2core said on September 13th, 2013
Superb bouldery line with a spooky mantle at the end of the crux. As hard as Infectious IMO. Watch out for the absolute choss on the scramble up to the first bolt.
2
Willy said on October 12th, 2013
Burly and absolutely stellar climbing! Very unique line. You can clip the bolt above the roof pretty easily before committing to those wild moves
3
dustonian said on October 14th, 2013
hard as piss but pretty fun.. and piggy wanted to call it 11d HAHAHA!
4
pigsteak said on October 14th, 2013
lol...hardest 11d I ever bolted for sure.....I worked the snot out of this line during the summer....spicey must have given me 20 belays on this rig!
5
Anonymous said on October 14th, 2013
Willy made it into the cool kids club. Congrats!
6
Willy said on October 15th, 2013
I didn't feel that cool anymore after I went there Sunday and found it completely clogged up and littered with Euro trash
7
JR said on April 21st, 2014
Pigsteak you are the best. Loved this route. I was in Hog Heaven.