The "start" of the crag

This route is located in the Lower Gorge Region at Purple Valley

A Way Of Life


1.
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Coffee Talk 5.10c (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Devin Pantess, Ray Pantess in 1991
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the first route encountered on the arete right as the approach trail reaches the wall.
There is a walk off to the right. This route has become more difficult since a hold on the lower section has broken.
Moves: Bouldery or Technical
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.94 stars (48 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10d (38 votes)

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Comments

1
Don McGlone said on January 17th, 2003
Haven't done it since the hold broke.
2
jlu said on November 23rd, 2003
fun route with a tough start. start is closer to a 5.10d, rest of route is more like a 5.10a or b. once you get a top rope set, you can climb a whole new slab route around the arete
3
maxclimb11 said on November 10th, 2005
its been more than a year but i remember it was hard and sharp but quite a fun route
4
merrick said on June 4th, 2006
great climb, two interesting technical cruxes. it keeps you thinking.
5
Captain Bad Beta said on July 6th, 2007
The beginning was realy thin till about two moves past the first bolt giving it the rating. Make this and the rest of the route feels about a 10a. Great climb!
6
Anonymous said on July 8th, 2007
it amazes me that everyone thinks that anyone wants to hear what everyone thinks about a climb
7
Caspian said on July 9th, 2007
That is a ironic comment considering the name of the route.
8
dbarless said on November 2nd, 2007
It amazes me that someone thinks anyone wants to hear what he has to say!
9
michaelarmand said on November 5th, 2007
I thought the start was much, much harder than 10c. Stiff boulder problem to better holds above. Fun enough route though.
10
Myke Dronez said on July 31st, 2008
Word on the street is that this line has been re-equipped. Kudos to the bolt fairies!
11
Dman said on January 24th, 2009
yep shiny metal a real nice climb