Nachos, Lemonheads, My Dad's Boat

This route is located in the Miller Fork at Secret Garden

Flashback


13.
+0
0 votes

Sloppy Seconds 5.11a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Dustin Stephens, Scott Curran in 2013
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

Click for more images
A tricky and thin lower section leads to a great arete run on big holds. A crux guards the chains where two closely spaced bolts will hopefully keep you off the slab if you blow it.
Moves: Balancy
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus
 

3.98 stars (50 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11a (48 votes)

You must login to save your input!
stars
grade
attempts
+
-
spray
+ add
project
+ add

Charts

Photos


Submitted by: Raiden
Date: May 4th, 2015

Submitted by: Reambo
Date: Apr 19th, 2014

Comments

1
Brentucky said on September 24th, 2013
Tough, slab section down low on this one. Also it's too bad I ripped off the good hold near the last bolt. I think it made this already stout 10d even stouter. Fantastic route!
2
EricDorsey said on September 27th, 2013
Great route. Definitely tricky and a little committing from bolt 2-3.
3
dustonian said on January 30th, 2014
Probably a good idea to clip the last draw before then downclimb before committing to the final crux moves, although caribe tested out the fall without clipping first and it was fine.
4
JR said on April 2nd, 2014
Super contrived finish. The arete climbing is delightful.
5
Reambo said on April 19th, 2014
ditto on dustonian comments, thats the way to go, i did two falls prior to just clipping the permadraw and down climbing for a short rest (slow learner), all was good, fantastic route
6
Chiyram said on March 18th, 2015
Awesome route! Pretty technical climb, which I like. Thought it was a full value 10d.
7
Anonymous said on January 3rd, 2016
I agree with the other me. Kinda contrived finish with obvious plates out right that everyone is using. Otherwise an alright route.
8
Anonymous said on January 3rd, 2016
That's the finish of Flashback...just climb that if your panties get bunched up
9
anticlmber said on January 3rd, 2016
Mine weren't bunched. Sounds like yours are though. Unbunch them and the sand will fall out of that twat. It was an alright route otherwise.