Bees in the Trap

This route is located in the Miller Fork at Secret Garden

Leech Line


19.
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Swole Up 5.9+ (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Dustin Stephens, John Flunker in 2013
Length: 80ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Dive into the demanding hand to chimney crack right of Bees in the Trap. Leave the Big-Bros behind because a hidden medium cam placement can be found in the chimney section.
Moves: unknown
Descent: unknown
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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3.25 stars (4 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9+ (5 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Feb 4th, 2015

Comments

1
dustonian said on October 2nd, 2013
Great crack climbing of nearly all varieties. Don't be scared off by the gaping chimney section, there is a medium cam placement hiding in there.
2
taurusclimber said on April 18th, 2016
Should have had anchors at the top. Also, bring your big gear, because there are placements for BD 6's at the top of the chimney.
3
Smiles said on April 18th, 2016
The hidden medium cam placement certainly is well hidden because I didn't see it. Glad I'd taken a #6 cam up with me as I got near the top of that chimney. Topping out proved quite hard, but I built a nice rap anchor on a tree right at the top that makes cleaning it a whole lot easier than trying to use the bolted anchors off to the right.
4
dustonian said on April 18th, 2016
There used to be a rap anchor on that tree that worked perfectly for these rarely climbed cracks. Guess someone swiped it when they decided to drill an anchor on the offwidth to the right.
5
Anonymous said on April 18th, 2016
Cough... Jake... Cough
6
taurusclimber said on April 25th, 2016
I didn't have my #6 because of the book description, so I looked hard and found a BD .75 placement near the top. Placing it was precarious, as I was too big to fit far back into the chimney, was on my tiptoes, and arm stretched as far as I could go. Yea. Wish I'd had my #6.
7
dustonian said on April 25th, 2016
It takes a 5 in the offwidth. The book description refers to the squeeze chimney in the middle.