COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.


This route is located in the Miller Fork at Secret Garden

Where the Dope At?

0 votes

Tinkerbell's Panties 5.9 (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Dustin Stephens, Jeff Kayse in 2013
Length: 55ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Begin atop a group of boulders and enjoy straight-in hand jams coupled with a few face moves.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Bolts
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC
fun (1) hands (1)
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Quality Consensus

3.5 stars (22 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9 (19 votes)

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Submitted by: dustonian
Date: Aug 17th, 2014


dustonian said on September 24th, 2013
Thanks to Art Cammers for the help cleaning this one up on the second (& third) ascent
rjackson said on December 24th, 2014
Fun. Really fun . . .
campby said on September 14th, 2015
If you like jamming, you'll love it. If you don't, you won't. Straight in hands to some later funkiness, and back to nice jams. Be ready to do some gardening. Solid red river gorge 5.9, with solid pro pretty much the whole way.
PatrickBecerra said on April 26th, 2016
Solid 5.9 hand crack. Great hand jams with some wide pods thrown in to keep you honest. A short run on face jugs before more jamming to the end. Gear felt tricky for me, everything was there but you had to find it. Gear #0.5 - #3 camalots. Grab the tree branch to clip the anchors, nobody's looking.
Chiyram said on April 15th, 2017
Crux felt tricky even after I figured it out. Hope you're not short. There is a great #4 way in the back after the crux you might want. First trad fall!
JeffCastro said on June 14th, 2017
This route has cleaned up well. It is a really fun hand crack. I thought the gear was pretty straight forward.
Catawaba said on June 11th, 2018
Super clean and fun, found it to be flared jams not straight jamming. A 3.5 would've been better for the crux. The 4 was pretty overcammed.