Alternative Medicines

This route is located in the Southern Region at What About Bob Wall

Brothel Doc


22a.
+0
0 votes

The Speed of Enzo 5.10c (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Shannon Stuart-Smith, Enoch Harding, Eva Bach, Julia Fain in 2013
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Named after a not so speedy wayward Beagle found near PMRP. Starts 10 feet left of Alternative Medicines on solid edges past a few bulges and ledges leading to iron imbued pale gray sandstone covered with orange lichen. Climbing steepens slightly near mid-point and the holds change to shallow pocket, crimps and pinches. Work your way up and over a couple more mild bulges using the occasional pockets, sidepulls, jugs and undercling. Follow the path of least resistance traversing to the right at the last bolt around the bulge on good feet then up through killer fin-like runnels to the anchors.
Moves: Pockets and crimps
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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2.5 stars (10 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10c (10 votes)

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Submitted by: Shannon
Date: Nov 17th, 2013

Submitted by: Shannon
Date: Nov 17th, 2013

Comments

1
Anonymous said on November 15th, 2013
What's up with these four-person FA's? Cleaner, bolter, belayer, climber? Sheesh.
2
Shannon said on November 15th, 2013
Wow! Really?! There is someone in the world that would take the time to post a random comment about how many people are listed as FA’s? This was a fun group effort of friends. Just a simple gesture of gratitude to share the credit :)
3
Anonymous said on November 15th, 2013
I guess this route is suuuuper clean then since 4 people cleaned it?
4
Jeff said on November 16th, 2013
Thanks Shannon, look forward to getting on this!
5
AdamDugan said on May 18th, 2014
This route has fun movement, but the rock is extremely fragile. More holds feel like they may break than not. There's also a rather fresh-looking crack in the rock around the last bolt, so tread lightly.
6
Anonymous said on December 16th, 2014
Very rarely do I look at a picture on the online guide and think, "Oh god that looks like a pile"….this was one of those times.
7
njclimber said on April 6th, 2015
Did not enjoy this route at all. Fragile rock and awkward movement. Last bolt is about to blow out of the rock. Beware.
8
whoneedsfeet said on October 13th, 2017
looks bad, climbs well.