Belly of the Beast

This route is located in the Southern Region at Bronaugh Wall

Dirty Girl


6a.
+0
0 votes

Spread Eagle 5.11a (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Terry Kindred, Blake Bowling in 2003
Length: 90ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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The intimidating corner tucked in to the right of Belly offers up some of the craziest moves and most bizarre positions in the Red. Burl out the crux start in the left chimney/crack, then shimmy up the offwidth and out the hanging chimney system, clipping the Dirty Girl anchor if you are light on big cams. Save a finger sized piece or two for the exit. The right start would would probably bump this down into the 5.10 range, but expect some loose rock. Bring several large cams in the BD 5-6 range, and a decent amount of everything else. Belay or lower from the ledge anchor for the slab sport route right of Dirty Girl.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Bolted anchor
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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4 stars (2 votes)
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5.11a (2 votes)

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Comments

1
Anonymous said on November 15th, 2013
Insane route! Proud ground up insight by sir krampsalot. No bolt anchor yet but it will be there soon.
2
krampus said on November 17th, 2013
Fantastic climb. If you can stomach the start, the rest is bliss. Thanks for getting me out there.
3
dustonian said on November 24th, 2013
bolted rap anchor is in, get on this thing! perfect route for cold conditions, almost no holds!
4
dustonian said on July 12th, 2014
This one needs a second ascent and it's prime time ya damn lazy OW climbers!! Kenneth? Dave? Arty?? So good!!