Murano

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Gallery

Guernica (to second anchor)


25a.
+1
1 votes

Guernica 5.11a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Dustin Stephens in 2013
Length: 65ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Technical face leads to big moves on wild knobs up high. Starts 15 feet left of Brief History stop at the first anchor.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
technical (1) beautiful (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

3.97 stars (66 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11a (60 votes)

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Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Sep 30th, 2016

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Nov 25th, 2013

Comments

1
Shannon said on November 21st, 2013
Very pleasantly surprised by the appealing movement on this one. Thoughtful but very doable start, through interesting features to a fat flake with plenty to work with for holds, finishing on juggy plates. One can style this all the way to the chains! Wasn't sure the wall had another great route on it, but it did...thanks Dustin! Oh, and very fairly graded :)
2
Sandymalone88 said on November 24th, 2013
Great route with a really nice boulder problem! Exciting mantle. Thanks Dustin
3
dustonian said on November 24th, 2013
Thanks Steve, & nice work figuring out the beta! Just a note, the mantle he's referring to is on extension to the 2nd anchor, which is 12b. The 11- version stops at the obvious jug with the 2-bolt anchor.
4
Brentucky said on November 24th, 2013
12b, eh? Man I hate when we get shut down on 12b.
5
dustonian said on November 24th, 2013
We were doing it wrong.... Sandmann found some clutch beta.
6
EricDorsey said on December 4th, 2013
Super fun route, the crack and chicken heads up high are cool and the start looks harder than it is. Felt closer to 10d but fun line either way.
7
dustonian said on December 4th, 2013
Agreed... Might split the diff at 11a.
8
420troll said on December 8th, 2013
if you think it is 11a than dont call it 11b when you put it up...wannabe sandbagger
9
dustonian said on December 8th, 2013
Honestly I could give a rat's ass what the grade is, though it's funny you took the time to write such a stupid comment.
10
Cromper said on December 23rd, 2013
Excellent rock climb! Definitely not 10d though
11
EricDorsey said on December 23rd, 2013
Whatever, its way easier than that sandbag 10d Malignant...
12
Anonymous said on December 23rd, 2013
Huzzah ;)
13
Rollo said on March 10th, 2014
I voted 10d too. Pretty easy with a crux at the chains.
14
dfspau2 said on March 18th, 2014
Who cares what the grade is, this thing is fun bottom to top!
15
Willy said on May 25th, 2014
11a felt right on. Really good climbing between some massive chicken head jugs. Nice eye Dusty
16
climb2core said on July 6th, 2014
Great route. Nice addition to the wall and nice to have a less gang banged route on this wall.
17
dustonian said on July 6th, 2014
Try the extensio... it really sets this route off. I might go back & add a chicken 'working' bolt someday... or not...
18
climb2core said on July 6th, 2014
I tried it twice before I had to lower as one of the gumby lines had opened up and I had belay duty. A bolt midway would make working it easier but not needed IMO
19
dustonian said on July 6th, 2014
You move out right to those big foothoolds, but it would be pretty hard to find the hands without chalk. Super fun boulder problem!
20
Raiden said on September 2nd, 2014
This thing felt like 10b/c on a hot August day; not sure why people think it's 3 grades harder than A Brief History of Climb. The top might be harder if you're <5'5" or so.
21
DrRockso said on October 8th, 2014
Cool route, the move from the undercling to the chicken head is sweet!
22
atingl1 said on February 6th, 2016
Oh man, we just discovered this route today! So very good. I found it way more enjoyable than Johnny B Good, movement-wise. those big moves at the top were so great!
23
bouja said on December 21st, 2017
As of mid October 2017, the finishing chicken head jug out right, below the anchors, has been ripped off. If anything I think it firms up the 11a grade. The finish now involves a nice crimpy/lockoff move to a slot jug to clip the chains if I remember correctly.
24
Spagel said on December 22nd, 2017
Great route! BIG move to finish and that made it very fun.