COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.


This route is located in the Southern Region at The Gallery

A Brief History of Climb

0 votes

Guernica (to second anchor) 5.12b (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Dustin Stephens, Steve Sandmann in 2013
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

Click for more images
Clip the first anchor on Guernica, rest/sack up, then continue up a ridiculously fun V4 boulder problem, trending slightly right with a big move and mantle top out. Clip fixed biners and lower off. Unclip the 4th bolt after clipping the 5th to reduce drag on the crux moves up top.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC

Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus

4.71 stars (7 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12b (7 votes)

You must login to save your input!
+ add
+ add



Sorry, no pictures to be had. {want to add a photo?}


Spikeddem said on November 26th, 2013
Legit question--not trying to be an ass: Why have the intermediate anchor? 11b into V9 is one thing, but 11b into a V4 seems reasonable (especially since it sounds like the rest is not a no hands?).
Anonymous said on November 27th, 2013
more points bra
dustonian said on November 27th, 2013
Just to save you the inconvenience of sacrificing a bail biner and cleaning the route on one bolt
pumpout2004 said on March 10th, 2014
The abruptness of the change in pace definitely legitimizes the duel sets of anchors. The top boulder is cool and puzzling when washed completely clean of chalk. Great route/s!
goodtimes said on May 8th, 2016
I definitely appreciate you guys adding the first set of chains..and probably all the .11 climbers do as well since it's a great route. As for the boulder problem up top, not sure where the holds went. I'll find em next time
dustonian said on May 8th, 2016
They're to the right, you move out on crimps and get up on a big foothold out there. Another bolt would probably make this a better but less exciting ExtenZe
JR said on May 17th, 2016
11a into V4 would give you a 12a... Last section is a 6 move V5 all day long. So 12b feels about right. Bolting made sense to me. If you got the hardware and want the best of both worlds this anchor setup is spot on. Besides, if you punt on the extension(like I did) you can still claim 11a onsight!! High Five! Up Top! If it weren't for the quality of the moves on the extension it would be very easy just to take your points and walk. However, I rather enjoyed banging away. Good stuff.
Anonymous said on March 6th, 2017
Anyone that has done the boulder problem up top, where do you go once you gain the crimp rail from the clipping jugs of the 11-? I was able to hit the sidepull, throw a heel with my left on the jugs, and match the rail, but there was no chalk on anything up there. Where do I go?
Anonymous said on March 6th, 2017
Walk your feet out to the right then go up